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#11
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But yes, now that he says he has a Pressure tank RO, he allready has a shutoff installed on the RO system.
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Dan Pesonen Umm, a tank or 5 |
#12
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![]() You do not have to have a tank in your RO system to have an auto shut off valve (ASOV)
Most systems come with this valve so that the unit shuts itself off and does not make any more ro water nor any more water to the drain. Here is a link, for a picture, there are a lot of pics on the web. http://www.goodwaterwarehouse.com/cat/6_roasv.shtml |
#13
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Only thing is you do not want your RO/DI direct to a float valve, as it will cause excessive wear and ultimately premature failure of the RO membrane. Instead, feed the valve off a bucket reservoir that you only fill once empty. That's what I do anyhow. ![]()
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-- Tony My next hobby will be flooding my basement while repeatedly banging my head against a brick wall and tearing up $100 bills. Whee! |
#14
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![]() Yeah I have 2 float valves wired to a sprinkler valve for my tank ATO. And I also have the sprinkler valve on a timer so it only has power for 2 min 6 times a day. So It has a fair amount of protection. If the first float fails then I have the second and if it fails too then hopefully full water for 12 min a day won't flood the tank before I notice.
The humidifier float is just for my water changing. Like sphelps said, just a safety mechanism in case I forget that I'm filling the can while watching tv or something. I assumed that they were pretty reliable if they're used in humidifiers but I wasn't sure if maybe humidifiers had another safety mechanism that I was unaware off? And I wasn't sure how often these need replaced / have problems but it doesn't sound like anyone has had any? |
#15
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#16
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![]() I have a humidifier float valve installed in an 80 gallon Canadian Tire Rain Barrell. It works flawlessly. I get enough water to do changes in all of my tanks at once if I need to. I have no valve and the thing has not failed me in over a year. I do have an auto shut off on my RO/DI system. I currently have my RO/DI supplying water to my 180, 90, 33, 20, and w/c barrell all at once, and all with humidifier float valves. I just fill my w/c barrell at night so i can keep the other resivoirs full for my ATO's.
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#17
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![]() No extra protection on the humidifiers and if you think about it household pressure is anywhere from 50 to 100psi typically.. think the biggest problem tends to be calcium buildup over time.
__________________
-- Tony My next hobby will be flooding my basement while repeatedly banging my head against a brick wall and tearing up $100 bills. Whee! |
#18
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The basic rule is to never rely on mechanical floats. I believe humidifiers have a drain if the water level gets too high, same as a toilet. Electronic systems can be designed with unlimited safety systems to prevent failure so you actually design them to meet your own personal confidence level. Last edited by sphelps; 02-11-2010 at 05:12 PM. |
#19
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![]() Most older humidifiers have a float valve and pan to hold water, the only drain is the one on the floor when it overflows. The mechanical float valves on these units last for years without fail. In my previous house the float valve had been working for 11 years and had not spilled a drop. The key to these things is simplicity. In my current humidifier I have an electronic solenoid and it took three of them before I got one that worked properly. I don't know of too many electronic devices, especially ones controlling water, that I would trust for 10+ years.
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#20
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![]() Well, I have just seen more of the temp hookup style RO units in this hobby than the permanent, drinking water kind.
__________________
Dan Pesonen Umm, a tank or 5 |
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