48" LED Array - Up and Running...Mostly

[Ron99]

Originally Posted by StirCrazy

what are the milled squars for? is that the bottom or the top?

Steve

The heatsinks came like that. Probably held some components or something. They are only 1/16 of an inch deep so a few emitters will sit 1/16 inch higher than the rest. I figured 1/16 inch won't make an appreciable difference in PAR and coverage etc. and given the cost savings of the heatsinks vs. something pristine I could live with it. It won't be visible inside the housing anyhow.

[Ron99]

Heatsinks cleaned and polished a bit and 80 emitters mounted:



next up, wiring...

[pangp]

tagging along..

looking good so far!

[BlueAbyss]

Originally Posted by Ron99

I would add nanotuners.com for LEDs and drivers as they have slightly better prices than ledsupply and also carry the Meanwell drivers which are a good choice. The Meanwells are nice because they come in dimming versions, run off AC power so there is no need for a separate power supply and can drive a good number of emitters.

Aha, forgot about nanotuners... they also carry some other cool stuff. LEDsupply carries Meanwell drivers also, I'm sort of leaning towards non-dimming since I no longer have the patience to experiment with PWM controls. That may change in the near future as I need a temperature controller and Arduino may be the ticket.

Originally Posted by Ron99

Heatsink USA is not bad if you want a brand new heatsink. But the heatsinks I bought are actually wider at 12" than heatsink USA's widest at just over 10" and for a similar length of the 10" wide from heatsink USA it would have cost well over $200 with shipping. I have 45" x 12" of surplus heatsink at a total cost with shipping of $75. So keep your eyes on eBay as there are lots of used heatsinks available. If you are patient you can find what you need at a good price.

I'm not sure the MC-Es offer a huge advantage over the XR-Es. Yes, they have more lumens but they also generate more heat since they are essentially 4 emitters on one die. Also, are there any good choices in optics for MC-Es? I feel that the XR-Es with good optics provide more than enough PAR and if you need more for say a deeper tank than the XP-G may be a better option at this point.

I really just meant to list some websites that I had found for such things. Ebay can definitely get you a better deal on just about anything (though I don't trust cheaply built Asian anything). I like the idea that people could salvage good aluminum heatsinks from computers and put them to good reuse as lighting equipment also (though this only works in nano-sized situations).

The MC-E's only advantage is that they are basically 4 XR-Es on a single die that can't be run as hard as the XR-E because of their higher 'thermal density'. There are just as many optic options for the MC-E as the XR-E. I am choosing them because they offer exactly that, more power with less space. If you're using more than 12 LEDs though, I doubt there is any reason to even glance at the MC-E. XP-Gs seem to be the most efficient, but any of the high powered LEDs will do the trick with the right optics (and optics are made for all of the popular LEDs), no matter the depth of the tank. I'm pretty sure that with 8 degree optics you could get good coverage on the bottom of a very deep tank.

My setup personally will consist of about 10 LEDs, so MC-Es = more light, less space when working with PCB stars.

EDIT: I meant to post this earlier this week but forgot... check out the 'Relative Spectral Curve's for the MC-E RGBW chips. http://ledsupply.com/docs/cree-mce1.pdf Shouldn't the curve for the 6.5K be heavier in blue than in red than 4K, rather than the other way around?

[StirCrazy]

I don't think the MCE are a good choice at this point. there white will realy over power blue and you won't be able to get as good of color variation as you can with the other ones right now.. well at least till they make a blue chip not a color chip. the color curves are right, remember a K temp can be made a thousand different ways so yes you could have a overall higher K temp with less blue as well as less red and green.

Steve

[BlueAbyss]

I only mentioned the RGBW in passing, I have no intentions of using them. I'll be using a 6.5K version. If they could fit 4 XR-Es into a 2" square, they would be a better option for my needs at the moment than the MC-E. I'm also considering using a 'light engine' and modifying it to my needs, rather than using the MC-E, but part of the reason I want to use the MC-E (with optics) is because it's something I haven't seen it done yet and I need this light source to be as compact as possible.

[Ron99]

Calvin, what are the dimensions o f the tank you are trying to light? The XR-E is plenty up to 24" with optics. 40 degree optics will probably put you between 250 watt and 400 watt metal halide PAR. I'm actually going to do some PAR testing when I have the array up and running so that will give us all some real numbers to look at.

As for heatsinks, eBay can be good for all sorts. Mine were definitely not from any computer. I am using three that are 12 inches by 15 inches and weigh 15 to 20 pounds each. they were industrial heatsinks of some sort. Lots of industrial heatsinks show up on eBay which is what I was looking for. You can find large heatsinks for any application on eBay, especially if you don't care how pretty they are. I was more concerned with size and functionality as they won't be visible in the housing. If they will be exposed and you want them to look nicer then Heatsink USA is a better, albeit more costly, option.

[BlueAbyss]

Yours are definitely not from a computer Curiously large heatsinks anyhow.

Hmm, I'll give you some background on my plan. I had a mysterious tank crash or illness take a few of my zoa colonies October / November, then I moved in December and lost my firefish and hermit crab. My goby is MIA, so assumed dead... So I'm left with 5 surviving coral colonies that I want to move into a second 10 gallon where I can better control the conditions (what I have now is pretty good for macros and crabs, but a little unstable for good coral growth).

The plan is to use a single 'spotlight' sort of light highlighting a rock island in the middle of the tank. Basically, an MC-E star surrounded by XR-E royal blue stars. I don't really think I'll use optics with them. I'll get to that with the 29 gallon tank later this summer, where I plan to use XR-Es and T5. I want to get away from halides, they project a lot of heat and I find it hard to deal with even with only a 70W.

EDIT: Found and read this tonight... very interesting. http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2010/2/aafeature2

[StirCrazy]

Originally Posted by BlueAbyss

. Basically, an MC-E star surrounded by XR-E royal blue stars. I don't really think I'll use optics with them.
EDIT: Found and read this tonight... very interesting. http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2010/2/aafeature2

Blue, from everything I have read the MC-E washes out the XR-E RBs which is why no one is using the MC-E in builds. maybe build it so it is easy to change out if you get that happening and want more blue. would be interesting to see how the PAR is on a MC-E with 40 degree optics.

I saw that article befor.. I don't believe either of the LEDs use optics so it is a good test for showing LEDs with no optices are just as good as T5s

Steve

[Ron99]

I would be really hesitant to use an MC-E over a 10 gallon tank. Even without optics you might burn your corals. Without optics you won't get much of a spotlight effect as the LEDs emit over about 120 degree angle. But even so they produce a hotspot under the emitter, even without optics. If you want a spotlight effect you would be better off using a small array of XR-Es with 60 degree optics. And as Steve said, the MC-E may wash out your blues. There is a reason that both DIY guys and commercial companies don't use the MC-E. I see what you're thinking but I have my doubts it will work as you plan.