Backflushing RODI

Maverick00 · #1 12-29-2011, 09:02 PM

Im using a vertex booster pump with a 75GPD Vertex RODI. Im getting pressures of around 90-100psi or so when using the unit, however im concerned this pressure maybe to high to backflush? Anyone see a problem with it?

Maverick00 · #2 12-29-2011, 09:12 PM

the bypass avoids going completly through the membrane so no matter if the pump is on or not, the pressure drops to next to nothing anyway, sorry answered my own question, should have thought about that alittle more before posting

Buckeye Field Supply · #3 12-30-2011, 08:04 AM

On a related note, I'd be careful running your water pressure that high, especially if you are pressurizing clear housings. If you have clear housings, but have the pump AFTER the prefilters, then not an issue...

Russ

mike31154 · #4 12-31-2011, 04:22 PM

Hmm, I have the PRV (pressure reducing valve) in my house plumbing tweaked to provide a pressure to my RODI in the neighbourhood of 90 psi as well. Wasn't aware that clear filter housings were weaker than the white ones? Is there some data to be had somewhere as to the pressure limits of housing types?

Myka · #5 12-31-2011, 05:31 PM

Ohhh, BFS is on CanReef now? Awesome.

With all that pressure, why not upgrade to a 150 gpd membrane?

Maverick00 · #6 12-31-2011, 05:34 PM

My charcoal and prefilter are clear housings as well @90psi. I assumed this pressure would be alright (even though its higher than the reccomended) because the booster pump does not have any sort of adjustable pressure regulator which i actually found alittle strange when i hooked it all up. Is it standard practice to install a pressure regulator after the booster pump to maintain a lower pressure than what the booster is providing? Feels like im chasing my tail on this one.

Buckeye Field Supply · #7 12-31-2011, 08:11 PM

If you buy the right brand of pump (Aquatec), the adjustable pressure comes built in. On the cheaper brands it doesn't.

Russ

Buckeye Field Supply · #8 12-31-2011, 08:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mike31154

Hmm, I have the PRV (pressure reducing valve) in my house plumbing tweaked to provide a pressure to my RODI in the neighbourhood of 90 psi as well. Wasn't aware that clear filter housings were weaker than the white ones? Is there some data to be had somewhere as to the pressure limits of housing types?

Not really. Plumbing code calls for <80 psi.

Russ

mike31154 · #9 12-31-2011, 10:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Maverick00

My charcoal and prefilter are clear housings as well @90psi. I assumed this pressure would be alright (even though its higher than the reccomended) because the booster pump does not have any sort of adjustable pressure regulator which i actually found alittle strange when i hooked it all up. Is it standard practice to install a pressure regulator after the booster pump to maintain a lower pressure than what the booster is providing? Feels like im chasing my tail on this one.

The PRV I was referring to in my post is in my home plumbing, I do not have a booster pump. City pressure to my house is generally between 110 & 120 psi. My residential tax dollars at work, there be some hills to pump the water up around here, so the City of Vernon doesn't mess around. They upgraded the water pumps to some big a$$ units a couple of years ago. The PRV is about 15 feet downstream of my main water shutoff & meter. My east outdoor spigot for the garden & irrigation system gets full city pressure, which is handy. Pretty sure the local plumbing code requires every home to have one of these now to get the pressure down to or below the standard 80psi that Russ from BFS quotes. I've got the adjustment screw on my PRV cranked pretty good, in fact I've observed close to 100 psi into my RODI recently! So far so good, but Russ mentioning caution with the clear housings causes me some concern, this is why I asked for more info on that. I think I'll do some net searching on the subject & see what I come up with.

mike31154 · #10 12-31-2011, 10:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Myka

With all that pressure, why not upgrade to a 150 gpd membrane?

Aha, because I like the rejection rate of my 75gpd membrane & with a little planning, I'm generally not short of fresh water. Rather save on DI media with better rejection rate over increased production. Besides, with all that pressure, production is faster than it would be at the safer pressures below 80 psi. Risky, perhaps, but I always monitor production, don't leave the house when I'm making water... or at least not for very long...