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#1
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![]() Just curious if there are any electricians or anyone that knows a little about tank lights. My two 2 bulb Aquaticlife T5's stopped working. I am sure it has to do with the salt creep but I recently changed over to freshwater so that wont be a problem anymore.
Anyway, curious if I could pay anyone to take a look and fix it if it is a cheap fix. I wouldn't want to go out and buy a whole new set up if I could fix these for relatively cheap say under $50. Thanks. |
#2
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![]() Are the bulbs good?
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360 gallon sps reef, 180 gal sump, bubble king supermarine 300, 4xmp40Wes, 2 x 6215 tunze waveboxes, 4 ghl mitras 360 Reef Tank |
#3
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![]() Check the end caps for black burn marks, if they look clean & not melted any where I would suspect that it would be the ballast.if you got one of those pen type current indicators you could easily find where the power stops. If you have current up to ballast but not after it's you ballast, if power after ballast it could be a couple of your end caps. You might be able to take the fixture to a place like Eccol or Westburne to have it check out.
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Feed the bear goodies, make a new friend, don't feed the bear............... 8' - 165gal Reef DIY LED's Build 2012 Nano Contest Winner Febuary 2013 POTM Winner 300 gal + 60 gal Complete DIY Build |
#4
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![]() Definately not the bulbs. I dont see any black burn marks on the end caps.
I will take it to one of those stores you suggest. Thank you. |
#5
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![]() Black burn marks on the end of the bulbs are not always a 100% indicator that they are shot. Many newer fluorescent ballasts, particularly T5HO have what's called an 'End of Life' or EOL feature. This will cut out both lamps on a two lamp fixture, even if one of them is still good. It's designed to minimize risk of fire or bursting the tube due to the ballast continuing to deliver current to a non functional tube.
If you haven't tried swapping tubes with known good ones, that will still be your best option for step one of troubleshooting and could save you some money & aggravation. Not sure it's a good idea to be looking for voltage at the output of a ballast at the endcaps. Very high voltage and without tube installed the circuit would not be complete anyway.
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Mike 77g sumpless SW DIY 10 watt multi-chip LED build ![]() |
#6
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![]() As suggested by Grizz a pen type tester is completely safe to use. The one I use is by Fluke but others are available. The tester detects current through the insulation of the wires and is made of plastic so you don't have to expose any wires or take things apart. Just plug the unit in and put the tester against the wires going into the ballast, if lights up or beeps you have power going to the ballast. Now place the tester against the wires leaving the ballast to the end caps, if the meter doesn't light up or beep your ballast is completly shot. The pen is handy to have for trouble shooting all sorts of devices such as wall plugs, light sockets, etc. Only works on AC voltage though, although they may make one for DC as well.
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#7
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![]() I wouldn't bother, they will not help you, they are sales, not service.
An electrical service call will be $100 and then parts. Take it to a LFS, that will be your best bet to getting someone to help for free. |
#8
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![]() Quote:
EDIT. They might not even know WTF you have. The aquarium ballasts and lamps are out of their field of expertise. The standard MH ballasts and lamps they sell are not the same as the ones we use. They may or may not even have a catalogue for something close. Last edited by parkinsn; 08-25-2011 at 01:09 AM. |
#9
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![]() Quote:
![]() EDIT: I bought a replacement ballast for my MH/T5 combo fixture there recently, they really are not that much different.
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Feed the bear goodies, make a new friend, don't feed the bear............... 8' - 165gal Reef DIY LED's Build 2012 Nano Contest Winner Febuary 2013 POTM Winner 300 gal + 60 gal Complete DIY Build Last edited by The Grizz; 08-25-2011 at 02:11 AM. |
#10
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![]() Quote:
I'm just saying that I agree that it would be a waste of time for the OP to go and get turned away with no help. Better to talk to an electrician. |