Tank Leveling Advice.........Please.

[Charlie_Tuna]

My basement floor is a concrete slab.

Naturally, the location that I have chosen for my 180-gallon tank is out of level 3/4" from left to right over the 6' span.

In trying to determine the best method to get my stand (1.5 square steel tubing) level, I have narrowed my choices to 2.

Option 1 - Rip down dimensional lumber (2"x4") to support/offset the entire length of the "gap". Shim would be cut very slightly higher to account for compression once the tank is full.

Option 2 - Install these (http://www.leevalley.com/en/hardware...=3,40993,41283). I am thinking that rather than use screws I would have them "tack" welded in place. I would place 1 at each corner and 1 (front and back) at the center support.

Please give me your thoughts. Which would you choose? Why?

Thanks!

[zum14]

Check out TheGrizz's stand. Looks pretty tough. Kind of the same idea as your #2 option but tougher.

[Ya Dude]

if your using steel,weld on some 3/4 nuts and use 3/4 bolts as jack adjusters.drill 7/8 holes in bottom of stand and weld the nuts there.
buda bing

[abcha0s]

My first reaction was to support option 1, but after checking out the link you provided, I think option 2 might work better. The only thing that I would suggest is using more than the 6 you suggested. I would probably go overkill and have them installed one per foot all the way around. I think that would be 16 in your case? It's not a question of strength as they appear to be very strong, but more about load distribution. Even on a concrete slab, load distribution is still important and will help ensure that the stand never twists.

[monocus]

i would watch out for #2 for the shear on your bolts-there are an other type in which the leveling screw is mounted into the bottom of your leg as a screw with the leveling leg inside the screw-pick them up at windsor plywood

[viperfish]

My 6' 180 Gal was out 1/2" on my basement floor. It's a wood stand but the method I used can be applied to wood or steel. Here is how I did it with Self Leveling Floor Grout from Home Depot:

- I used a pry bar to lift the stand to level and insert shims (the fewer shims the better)
- Now you're going to have to seal around the outside of the stand to keep the grout from running away on you. I had some nice thick slats from a venetian blind, I ran those around to set a "form" and held them in place with Tuck tape. You can use cardboard or anything else that works.
- Once the form is set the rest is a cakewalk, you just apply the primer to the floor, mix up the compound in a 5 Gal bucket and pour inside the stand. I kept my trowel handy in case the self leveling claim was BS but it worked flawlessly. It will level itself out and the surface is smooth.
- Next day you can pull the form (1 hour later if you buy the quick set stuff) and there you have it, a stand that is supported around the entire perimeter.
- I pulled my shims a day later and touched up the spots with a small tub of pre mixed grout.

The leveling feet idea works as well but there is more messing around (if you aren't a Welder) to acheive the same end result.
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[The Grizz]

CT, my 8' 165 is on 10 adjustable legs. 3/4" grade 8 ready rod, 3/4" grade 8 nut welded onto the leg of the stand and a 4" dia. 1/4" thick pad welded to the ready rod make leveling a breeze. Start at the ends of the tank to get it leveled and then turn down the others until they are tight to the floor.

[Charlie_Tuna]

Well, after additional research, I think I may just build a mold (2" - 2.75" at the low end) and fill with Sakrete fast-set mortar.

This will eliminate the "putzing" around with ripping 2x4's and it will offset the fact that I am not a welder.

Thanks for the tips. Much appreciated!