well water rodi

carnut · #1 03-21-2009, 07:41 PM

Okay who uses well water? Our runs through a 1 micron filter, than a five micron carbon block, then uv filter then it enters the rodi unit. I have been using a 1 micron than 5 micron carbon , then di cartidge . I am thinking of dropping the second carbon filter, we have no chlorine, so is it really doing anything other than costing too much. Thinking two 1 micron filters than di.

Any thoughts?

MitchM · #2 03-21-2009, 10:19 PM

I'm on well water here.
We have a 5 micron/carbon filter - water softener - 1micron RO/DI.
We're pretty happy with it, change the filters every three months or so.
Why do you have UV in there? Coliforms?

Mitch

carnut · #3 03-21-2009, 11:53 PM

UV light to protect from eccoli and such. We are in farm country and after Walkerton Wife's not taking chances.

What is in your ro? Are you using carbon in it too or just 1 Micron filter?

Myka · #4 03-22-2009, 12:21 AM

Are you actually using a reverse osmosis cartridge? It sounds like you just have sediment, carbon, and deionization cartridges. The 1 and 5 micron will be either sediment filters or carbon blocks. A RO cartridge won't have a micron rating. The order they should go in (in whatever multiples you may need) are sediment, carbon, RO, DI. The deionization (DI) cartridge will wear out very very quickly if the water isn't RO filtered before it enters the DI cartridge.

MitchM · #5 03-22-2009, 12:22 AM

1micron, carbon, membrane, DI.

We go through enough water I'm happy with possibly too much carbon, rather than being worried about too little.
I'm not too sure how you can tell when your carbon is exhausted anyways.

The water softener makes the biggest visual difference. There is some staining on the pipe going into the softener, no staining exiting the softener.

Mitch

Myka · #6 03-22-2009, 01:27 AM

The softener is before the RO/DI unit right? Both carbon and sediment filters should be replaced every 6 months. The RO should be replaced when its product water gets to 20 ppm or less if you prefer. The DI should be replaced as soon as the product water reaches 1 ppm, but double check that it's coming out of the RO under 20 ppm. Do you have a digital TDS meter to test your water? What is the TDS of your tap water after the softener but before the RO/DI?

MitchM · #7 03-22-2009, 01:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Myka

The softener is before the RO/DI unit right?

Right.
Water well - whole house filter - pressure tank - softener - RO unit.
TDS meter after the softener - input is 193 output is 3. I guess it's time to change something there.

We also have a separate RO unit (no DI) for drinking water that we change everything and disinfect every three months.
I'm not that concerned with the reef RO.

Mitch

carnut · #8 03-22-2009, 09:20 AM

It's a stricty H20 three stage. Right now i too use the 1 micron, carbon , membrane, di. Just trying to decide if second carbon is actually doing anything or just a waste of money. we also have an iron filter on the house.

You never realise how much water costs till you have to clean it yourself

Doug · #9 03-22-2009, 02:01 PM

Mine was identical to Mitches. Except no DI resin and thats what led to all the troubles with my 225g. No resin to reduce alk. I would never run well water without it on the end again.

banditpowdercoat · #10 03-22-2009, 02:02 PM

I"m on a community well system. Pretty hard. comes out oftap 300-700PPM depoending. Usually around 400. My RO is 5micron/1micron/carbon/RO/DI I have just been changing ALL filters and DI at same time, only changed Membrane once. Water is/has never been 0 coming out of unit. allways 2-8ppm depending