Calling on wood workers for some assistance

bassman · #1 05-27-2008, 10:01 PM

I am about to build a 230 gal tank. I have all the glass cut and ready to go including a 24" x 24" center brace but I would like to avoid using it if possible.

The brace is starfire so I am not concerned about it blocking my lights, I just don't want to loose that much space smack dab in the middle of my tank.

I am building the tank into a oak wall unit so I will already be putting a 3" - 4" wide strip of 1" thick oak all the way around the top and bottom of the tank to act as trim.

My question is this. Could a person just place two 4" wide strips of 1" thick oak across the top of tank, front to back?
They would be tied into the top outside trim. I would position them properly so when viewed from above the tank would have 3 openings of equal size. Allowing me to hang 3 pendants.

All the connections would be done properly with wooden dowels, clamps and glue.

The wood would be sealed with a potable rubber compound to avoid moisture damage.

I personally think this will be plenty strong, maybe even stronger then the glass brace. However I would like to hear thoughts from people that really know wood and it's capabilities.

Thanks

rocketlily · #2 05-27-2008, 10:09 PM

Check out reefcentral.com. In the DIY forum there is an excellent thread started by Rocket Engineer on building stands with weight loads and such.

sphelps · #3 05-27-2008, 10:14 PM

Wood is very hard to analyze, it depends on many factors including the grain direction. I would stick with either the center brace or a glass euro brace. Wood will also soften and weaken if exposed to moisture, you would have to epoxy coat it to use it as structural support in the way you described.

bassman · #4 05-27-2008, 10:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sphelps

Wood is very hard to analyze, it depends on many factors including the grain direction. I would stick with either the center brace or a glass euro brace. Wood will also soften and weaken if exposed to moisture, you would have to epoxy coat it to use it as structural support in the way you described.

Hmm, I wonder if I could use box aluminum instead?

Nevin · #5 05-27-2008, 10:43 PM

Why not combine smaller glass braces with the wood braces you describe? The dowels will only hold the braces up, not resist pulling apart. I don't think glue on wood will hold up as well as silicone on glass against an outward force like that. Screws would help (stainless), but I'm not sure that would be enough.

bassman · #6 05-28-2008, 12:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nevin

Why not combine smaller glass braces with the wood braces you describe? The dowels will only hold the braces up, not resist pulling apart. I don't think glue on wood will hold up as well as silicone on glass against an outward force like that. Screws would help (stainless), but I'm not sure that would be enough.

Not sure what you mean about combining the wood braces with smaller glass braces. How would I do that?

The straps would go front to back, edge to edge over top of the outter trim, so the dowels would be running up and down. 1" into the strap and 2" into the front trim. Viewing the strapping from the side with the dowels installed it would resemble a staple if that makes sense. LOL

dabandit · #7 05-28-2008, 01:32 AM

Have your glass cut into 3 or 4 4'' pieces problem solved no need to reinvent the wheel lol

Nevin · #8 05-28-2008, 06:11 AM

I think I see what you mean. The wood brace at the top of the trim should hold, but with that much pressure you might see some deflection at the bottom of the trim. And it wouldn't take much deflection to put stress on the glass.

What I was suggesting is using 2 or 3 smaller glass braces rather than 1 wide one, positioned under the wood braces so you don't lose too much access to your tank.

With the disclaimer that I have much more experience with wood than glass, I think that ought to work.

Hope this helps,
Nevin