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#1
04-01-2008, 05:16 PM
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Help with Drilling Acrylic Sump
Wondering if someone with a bit of experience would be willing to lend me a hand.
I have a sump with a 1.5" outlet installed that is going into a Reeflo Snapper. The intake of the snapper is 2" and I am trying to curb the obscene amount of noise this pump is emitting compared to my dart. My question is, how easy would it be to drill expand this hole to support a 2" Bulkhead? And does anyone have any experience with this? 
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#2
04-02-2008, 12:15 AM
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What I would do is use/make a template first instead of risking any screwup on a complete sump. The hole cutting template could be made of 1/4" acrylic/pvc/wood or whatever is not too expensive and easily machined. Take the template and stick it onto the sump where you want to make the hole with superduper tacky two sided tape. Then router out the new hole opening on the sump with a flush trim bit. If you can make the hole in the template you can make the hole in the sump without fear. It should turn out melt and chip free.
This is all great if you have a router.
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#3
04-02-2008, 12:21 AM
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You could make a template using a typical hole saw bit and a cordless drill if you don't have a drill press. Or maybe trace some other round object of correct diameter with a router.
Much cooler would be beer and a laser cutter or cnc 
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#4
04-02-2008, 12:34 AM
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What Kari said but you can drill out with a hole saw that fits into a hand drill your right sized hole in 3/4" ply and then secure to the plexi with clamps. An extra piece of ply on the other side is a good idea for rigidity and strength. I would also remove the pilot drill. The ply is deep enough that you won't have trouble re drilling the smaller hole. The only caution would be to insert your hole saw and then just before contact with the plexi start the drill slowly and you should be fine. Routers are good but it's an extra tool that you have to get if you don't have one.
I hope this helps and that it made sense too. I also like Kari's idea about the beer 
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#5
04-02-2008, 01:02 AM
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I just brewed up some beer and I think I will ask my dad to help me out as he's got all the great tools sitting collecting dust. Because I will simply be expanding the hole I agree about the pilot bit being removed, and will definnitely build a template for it for stability. Hopefully this will cut down on the noise when I get to it...
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#6
04-02-2008, 01:27 AM
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You could use a die grinder.
I would just jigsaw it out. I can help you out if you want but it sounds like you have it taken care of already.
__________________
150 Gal system 3'x3' 400W M/H, Bekett skimmer, Dart return,1/4 HP Chiller 180 Gal Drop tank, LED lights, Bubble master 250 skimmer,Hammerhead on a closed loop, Speed wave return.
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#8
04-02-2008, 05:15 AM
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Quote:
The right blade its never been a problem for me cut it all the time at work. Its just plastic. Acrylic cuts just as well as UHMW or polycarb it is just more brittle.
__________________
150 Gal system 3'x3' 400W M/H, Bekett skimmer, Dart return,1/4 HP Chiller 180 Gal Drop tank, LED lights, Bubble master 250 skimmer,Hammerhead on a closed loop, Speed wave return.
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#9
04-02-2008, 04:02 PM
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Because it is brittle and so it tends to spider-web and at times even chip. Maybe it was just me and quite possibly just the wrong blade! LOL! However there is constant contact with a hole saw's teeth and so it scrapes/peels away, like a planer; less stress on the acrylic sheet. Just my 2 cents and experience.
I guess, upon reflection, I'm not that fond of hand held jig saws.
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#10
04-02-2008, 04:10 PM
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I'd have to second BC Mosaic's comments on the jigsaw. It probably works, but the back-and-forth motion pushes and pulls the acrylic, creating unnecessary stress on it. Anything that rotates should be better.
Regards, Nevin
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