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#1
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![]() Well, I've just upgraded to a 120G 3 days ago and things have been up and running fine until today. My 2x250W halide ballast(single ended bulbs) I've plugged in and out manually the last three days since I didn't have the right timers.
Well, I tried to plug it into my timer today and my GFCI plug went Pop and tripped. Tried to move it back to the GFCI directly and pop, GFCI tripped. Not sure what is happening or why something changed? I have run these lights for several days and had tested a couple of months ago for several days as well. Anyway, I tried to plug em directly into the wall since I thought maybe the GFCI was not quite enough power and the whole ballast box went pop(and flashed!!) and no lights came on. I only left it plugged in for a couple seconds. So, I needed some light so I tried to run it with just one bulb and that is now working fine. I am scared to switch bulbs or try them both again as I'll really be screwed if it fails alltogether (I only have my 196W PC light from my 33G to use in emergency). Anyone know what is going on or what I can do to figure out this problem?? Is it OK to run with just one bulb on??
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-Mike (Tank Info / Links / Pics shown below) 120G Reef with 2x250W MH lighting My old 33G Reef with 192W PC lighting Live Rock - These tanks have some purchased liverock, but mostly home made live rock |
#2
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![]() What are the dimensions of your 120?
Sounds like one of your ballasts died, and the other works still. I would try both your bulbs on the ballast that is known to work to check them out to make sure both bulbs are ok still. Then I would see if anyone has an old set of bulbs that are 1+ years old they have kicking around (if you dont have any) and try a crappy bulb on the ballast that "popped". What brand ballast is it? A probe start 250w ballast is about $75 or so to replace at a lighting store, you can do it yourself and keep the enclosure and wiring the same. That is if the wiring is still good and no corroded or anything from the mishap. |
#3
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![]() Thanks reefgeek. I didn't actually realize there are two ballasts (my ballast box has just one plugin), that would explain why one could be working. Unfortunately I don't know what kind of ballast it is, bought it all used from another reefer here, so I'll have to try to see if he knows. I guess it is OK to run just one side then for now.
I'll try the other side on its own later to see what happens. I assume something is shorted out in that ballast and that is why its tripping the GFCI. I'll open it up later and have a look, but for now, I need to leave it on tonight for the corals since I wasn't able to turn it on till 5PM. Thanks for the help. Love to hear any other suggestions or if someone knows where I can get replacements ballasts (in Calgary perhaps??). Tank dimensions are 4'x2'x2'. Its only about half full of water right now, as I'm slowing increasing it from my 33G I upgraded from.
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-Mike (Tank Info / Links / Pics shown below) 120G Reef with 2x250W MH lighting My old 33G Reef with 192W PC lighting Live Rock - These tanks have some purchased liverock, but mostly home made live rock Last edited by vertex; 03-16-2006 at 12:34 AM. |
#4
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![]() open up the box the ballast is in and read the label on the big square looking thing, look for either m58 or m138...more than likely, they're m58s...just go to a hydroponics store and get another set. or a wholesaler if you can do that too
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a tout le monde, a tous les amis. je vous aime, je dois partir. |
#5
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![]() Lighting stores will also carry it - the smaller more industrial shops, no the fancy lighting places.
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#6
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![]() Well, thanks for all the help everyone and quick replies. I found the problem...
![]() The neutral was shorting out at the connector from the plug to the case. Not really sure why one bulb worked and two would not but maybe it required just a little extra current to cause the spark to case to short the GFCI. Anyway, I rewired all the inputs and connectors and its all back up and running!! Both bulbs are OK and its looking like it should again!! Whewww!! What a relief.... ![]()
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-Mike (Tank Info / Links / Pics shown below) 120G Reef with 2x250W MH lighting My old 33G Reef with 192W PC lighting Live Rock - These tanks have some purchased liverock, but mostly home made live rock |
#7
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![]() Nice! Good stuff.
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#8
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![]() Sweet jesus! You need a grommit in there badly. I don't mean to lecture, but this is how a house fire can start. I assume you bought a DIY, because no professional box would come wired like that.
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George |
#9
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![]() jws444,
Whoa, its not that bad! There was a proper connector (4040) in the hole that clamped the cord in place. The problem was that the clamped cord had started to pull out the back so it was then right at the point where you can see the burnt wire at the end of the shielding. I agree though, this was very dangerous. The sparks I saw flying alone were scary enough. I'm glad I ran into this now though and was able to fix it right away. Could have been much worse, even if it had just tripped the breaker or GFCI for a day, since all my pumps heaters and everything would have been off. What does everyone else here do for power, do you put everything on one GFCI plug or do you put some emergency pumps on a separate circuit so at least if the GFCI does trip, some circulation is still active? Mike
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-Mike (Tank Info / Links / Pics shown below) 120G Reef with 2x250W MH lighting My old 33G Reef with 192W PC lighting Live Rock - These tanks have some purchased liverock, but mostly home made live rock |
#10
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![]() I have the lights on a separate GFCI circuit with 1 power head. I have the other pumps and skimmer on another GFCI circuit. NO matter which one blows I have some circulation in the tank.
Doug |