DIY cube

Gringos · #1 06-21-2005, 03:39 PM

I am going to make myself a 24x24x24 cube, about 60g. I was thinking 1/4 inch glass with euro-bracing. I might get starfire glass for the front pane, still waiting on the quote for that one. I will be making an exterior overflow box (1 inch bulkhead) and maybe 2 drilled holes (3/4 bulkhead) for return, all on the back glass. I am still in the planning process so any recomended changes/improvement are welcomed.

muck · #2 06-21-2005, 03:41 PM

I wouldn't build a tank that high with 1/4" glass..

mr_alberta · #3 06-21-2005, 03:43 PM

I don't think you'll be able to get away with using 1/4" glass on a tank that is 24" H. Garf.org recommends 3/8" glass. Or you can do what I did and use 1/2" glass

Since you are building a custom tank, I'd also drill a couple more holes to allow for a closed loop and returns in case you need more flow.

Gringos · #4 06-21-2005, 04:16 PM

Now that you guys say so, 3/8 glass with euro-bracing does sound better. Would 1 hole for return and 2 for closed loop be better? I don't want to be making too many holes.

danny zubot · #5 06-21-2005, 04:33 PM

That depends on how much flow you want going through the sump. If it were my tank I'd use a 1.5 inch bulkhead to allow for at least 1200 gph return flow. I'd use only 1 return, probably .75 inch, and go ahead with the closed loop. Did you check out the overflow and head loss calculators on Reef Central?

Another idea would be using half inch glass for the tank with no eurobracing, but its a lot more expensive.

mr_alberta · #6 06-21-2005, 05:01 PM

1200GPH coming out of a single 3/4" return is way too much in my opinion. The water velocity coming out of that nozzle would be huge! I would do at least 2x 3/4" returns and maybe put a couple of y's on the ends to disperse the flow even more.

I would go for the larger drain though. You never know when you'll get the itch for more flow

As for the closed loop, you don't have to drill your tank for a closed loop. You can always do an over the back closed loop or forget the closed loop completely and use powerheads.

Gringos · #7 06-21-2005, 05:32 PM

I will go with 3/8 all around and maybe 10mm starfire for the front. Now lets see if I got this right. I will want a 24 3/4 x 24 3/4 for my front, back and bottom glass. The sides will need 2 pieces of 24 x 24. I guess what I realy want to know is do I put the glass on top of the bottom glass or around it when I put the tank together. Is a 2inch bracing around the inside perimeter good. Now for the overflow box, can I get away with 1/4 glass?

mr_alberta · #8 06-21-2005, 05:41 PM

This is the cut list that you'll need (taken from the Tank Builder Calculator on Garf.org)

Bottom = 23 1/4 " x 23 1/4"
Front = 24 " x 24"
Back = 24 " x 24"
2 Sides = 24 " x 23 1/4"
Top Front/Back brace = 23 1/4 " x 2"
Top Sides brace = 23 1/4 " x 2"

This is for a "floating bottom" tank (all the glass around the sides are stuck onto the bottom glass rather than on top of the bottom glass).

As for the overflow box, you will be able to use 1/4" assuming it isn't 24" high.

Gringos · #9 06-21-2005, 09:38 PM

So when I actually build the tank, how do I make shure about the gap between the glass so there is enough silicone in there? I read that a 1/16 gap is good enough. Do I want to heve that much gap, if so, don't I have to take that into consideration when I get my glass cut?

Agreed that floating bottom is better. That said, when I build my stand, do I need to support the whole bottom or just the outside perimeter?
So many questions, hope you guys don't mind. I keep reading but still can't find all the answers.

Tarolisol · #10 06-21-2005, 10:10 PM

IF i was making this tank i would go with 1/2" without the bracing, it would look real smooth, especially you are not going to have a closed canopy ontop.