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#1
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![]() Hi,
This is my first post on this forum. I'm new to the hobby, started with a used RSM 130 about 7 months ago. I have upgraded to the InTank media rack (loaded with floss, purigen and chemi-pure) with the Tunze 9001. Also added a Vortech MP10ES for more flow. Over the past serveral months I have read and read, trying to take it slow. I quickly learned the important of Quarantine, after a ich outbreak. I am now ultra caution of anything I introduce to the tank, corals are quarantined in a 5.5 gal and fish in a 20 gal. I currently have two clowns, 1 fire shrimp, 2 cleaner shrimp, ~6 blue legged hermits, a conch of some kind, toadstool coral, torch and a green flower pot. Unfortunately, I did not research the flower pot before the purchase and have now learned they are very hard to keep and likely will not last more than a year. I have tested all the parameters with the following results: Temp - 79 Salinity - 1.025 Phosphate - 0.00 via Hanna Checker Calcium - 380 (a little low, currently adjusting the C Balance dose manually) Alkalinity - 143 (a little low, currently adjusting the C Balance dose manually) Nitrate - 0 Ammonia - 0 Despite working hard on my parameters over the past few months, for the past two weeks my corals appear unhappy. The Toadstool is not extending it's polyps, or very patchy extension. The flow pot is about the same and now the torch polyps are shortening as well. Quite honestly, I feel I'm doing all the right things and still coming up short. My frustration is building... any help or advise is much appreciated. Thank you in advance |
#2
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![]() Hrm seems a bit weird as your parameters are all inline, has anything changed recently? We're the corals ok before and now having trouble or steady decline?
Also wondering about your dosing and your WC scedual cause most time new tanks don't have much demand for dosing so it isn't. Needed till corals start to use more of the calcium and Alk up in between water changes If say start with some easy things like a water cjange and maybe some more frequent ones for the next bit see if that helps. Also are you feeding anything to your corals reef roids frenzy or anything like that it could be that your water is too clean and your GFO and carbon are stripping the water of all the nutrients before they get to use them That's my 2 cents for now ![]()
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Current tank---125 gallon mixed reef 60 gallon sump, Reef octopus nw200 skimmer, Rapid LEDs, Maxspec gyre, Mp10s, Fuge, Biweekly 20% WC, QT everything |
#3
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![]() Did you increase your light intensity or duration?
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#4
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![]() Thanks for the quick replies
Craigdillman – The Toadstool was my first coral and was very full and healthy since introduced 4 months ago. The flowerpot was QT’ed for 4 weeks and was extended for about two weeks before slowly declining. The torch was also QT’ed for 4 weeks and introduced to the DT about two weeks, again it was good in QT and the display tank and has declined in the last few days. I'm not supplementing with any coral food, WC are 20% every 3-4 weeks with IO Reef Crystals. Does 20% every two weeks sound better? I originally thought with my parameters in line, I would be able to do them every 4 weeks. brotherd – no change in lighting other than replacing 1 of the 2 Compact Fluorescents about 5 weeks ago. I changed both bulbs one at a time over 2 months. The lights are on for about 14 hours each day, 7:30 AM – 9:30PM. Is that too long? |
#5
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![]() Werid that they do better in at than main? What's the difference between the two tanks
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Current tank---125 gallon mixed reef 60 gallon sump, Reef octopus nw200 skimmer, Rapid LEDs, Maxspec gyre, Mp10s, Fuge, Biweekly 20% WC, QT everything |
#6
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![]() I would cut back or even remove the Purigen and Chemi-pure for awhile at least. Your tank is '' too clean '' for LPS
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Sebae |