#41
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#42
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oops, sorry wrong paste...ignore
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#43
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I am not reading online since I am getting infos from electrical engineers. I have, out of curiosity, confirmed with another colleague of mine just now and is also saying that you get billed for the amount of voltage and current you are drawing out from the outlet; NOT how much your device is consuming. There's no such utility meter that can determine which device is consuming what. With the difference in calculation, he came to some conclusion:
1. The motor is really horrible 2. The readings are not taken from the correct point I am not with number 2 because the DC pump is right on target regarding the readings; so I stick with the motor is horrible
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You wouldn't want to see my tank. I don't use fancy equipment and I am a noob |
#44
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I cannot find anything to suggest a residential meter measure kVA, only watts.
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#45
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Yap residential meters record KWh, not KVA.
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You wouldn't want to see my tank. I don't use fancy equipment and I am a noob |
#46
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Thus your meter only counts the real power.
I'm with Steve and his research. |
#47
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Then my question is, how would each of the real power of individual components in the household be calculated by the utility meter?
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You wouldn't want to see my tank. I don't use fancy equipment and I am a noob |
#48
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They consist of a motor with the stator current being the current into the building and the rotor curreent being proportional to the voltage at the building input. The motor turns a disc (the disc you see rotating in the window) that passes through a magnetic field generating eddy currents in the disc and this regulates the speed at which the disc turns so that the meter can be adjusted to read correctly. |
#49
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Because the utility meter measures the exact same thing as the energy monitor, it measures actual power in kWh. It doesn't measure apparent power or vars.
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#50
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2. That is exactly how it is done. The rotor moves proportionally to the product of voltage and current to shows kWh consumption. No PF involved that's it. So when a outlet draws 1.85A @ 115V, that means the rotor is turning at a proportional rate directly to the product of those two. The motor needs 82W to run and it is taking in 82W but due to its inefficient manner (age, water, etc.), the pump has to take in more power and hence 1.85*115V. For this motor, you are bringing 1.85A "in" the house.
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You wouldn't want to see my tank. I don't use fancy equipment and I am a noob |