![]() |
|
#1
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() Way back in the day I stopped using Ocean Pure salt because I discovered it contained higher than normal levels of boron. For that reason the TM salt would be the first thing I would rule out. Get a freshly mixed batch of salt water tested with Triton to see how the base line compares.
|
#2
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() Yep that's a good idea. Will a ~60g batch be big enough to give a good representation of the salt?
|
#3
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() Quote:
I'm not sure if TM uses Boron in their alkalinity supplement. There is also Boron in the Coral K Elements. I'm not sure I would be concerned about Boron at that level though. Regarding the Mo - it's in the Coral A Elements. I'm betting if you test your water with a Salifert Calcium kit you'll get a reading much closer to the Triton results. The Hanna Calcium Checker is notorious for giving false high readings - even if you're getting consistent readings. Also, if you're using the RO/DI water with 12 ppm TDS for the Calcium Checker that will throw it off too - you should be using distilled water for best results. My Calcium Checker is a shelf decoration and as far as I'm concerned that's all it's good for. ...And for the love of sticks why are you running old RO filters?! ![]() ![]() Specifically read the part under "Deionizing Resin Depletion Issues" and make note that the DI resin is what takes the ammonia out of the city water here since Saskatoon adds chloramines to the water. Ammonia goes through the reverse osmosis membrane. |
#4
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() Gallons you meathead
![]() Hans-Werner Balling himself has been emailing back and forth with me and has given me some good feedback. Like you said Myka, there is Boron in the form of boric acid in the K+and Molybdenum in the A-. The only reason I am concerned about the Bo levels is the Triton test analysis flagged it as dangerously high. Supposedly it will hit the fish and mobile inverts before the sessile ones. My fish, snails and conches are fine so far. I will be switching over to a new Ca & Alk test kit once I get home. And to make Myka happy I will change out my RODI filters ![]() |
#5
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() ![]() ![]() Quote:
Quote:
![]() It's probably the LEDs. ![]() |
#6
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() I will indeed take the company with millions and millions of dollars of equipment and more scientific knowledge that I hope to possess recommendations with a grain of salt
![]() I know you didn't say 12ppm was causing the episode, I just like busting your balls. And yes, it's the LED's without a doubt ![]() |
#7
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() Doooood, I froze my balls off my first winter in Saskatchewan!
![]() What I was trying to get at with the Boron is that with the level being approximately double NSW that's not high enough to cause the RTN episode. Sure, finding the source and lowering it to NSW would be ideal. Fwiw, if you haven't come across it yet, Randy Homes-Farley suggests the Salifert Boron test kit to achieve a "ball park" boron level if it's something you would like to monitor without having to do a $60 Triton test repetitively. www.reefsupplies.ca carries it or I'm sure you could order it from Bayside. Oh, and I'm glad that you realize it's the LEDs. I can't wait to see your tank with 400w Radiums! ![]() ![]() |
![]() |
Tags |
abyzz, bubble king dc 250, mitras, profilux 3, reef |
|
|