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#1
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![]() Just to be different... I've never treated for Ick and if I've ever lost a fish to it it would have been back in 2004/5 when I was just starting out. Instead I try to minimize stress by under stocking, keeping my hands out of the tank, leaving the fish in the tank, feeding well and often, and spreading the new additions out over the course of many months. The result is that when my fish get Ick (which is rare) they get over it on their own like the common cold.
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"We shall dive down through black abysses... and in that lair of the Deep Ones we shall dwell amidst wonder and glory forever." - H.P. Lovecraft Old 120gal Tank Journal New 225gal Tank Journal May 2010 TOTM The 10th Annual Prince George Reef Tank Tour |
#2
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![]() Realistically you have answered your own question , you either leave fish in display tank and try garlic guard and nls ich shield pellets and hope it gets under control, or you pull the fish and treat them and leave your display empty . And once that is cleared up qt everything you put in the display , seriously everything corals/new rocks/fish if you skip qt because the fish looks healthy you will always end up in the same boat. I have a couple fish coming up on 10 years so my method of qt'ing everything I would say has worked well . Have always hated treating fish in the qt with cuprimine , never tried real copper not worth the hassle , hypo is dangerous imo . My method has always been qt tank/good water quality / live rock , feed food soaked in garlic guard and let the fish be if the fish is strong the fish will be fine . So for me I dont use medicine/treatments and have never had ich in my display in the last decade I will continue to qt everything because you never know whats hiding and even when you dip you can still have stuff come in so qt eliminates guessing and if you have fish long term you would like to keep them healthy skipping qt is a terrible plan imo.
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stuff happens when you go outside Im a hustler / I'll hop in the ocean / sell a whale a splash |
#3
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![]() I think most people who have an ich or velvet out break know the cycle and know what to do , it comes down to if you want to do the work and go through the process of treating it or not .
If treated properly with approved methods and DT left fallow for the 8-9 weeks you will erridicate the ich and be free from it in your DT , and from now on all new additions will need to be Qt or your rolling the dice. Remove the fish , treat with tank transfer method, copper , hypo (probably the hardest of the three) leave the DT fallow 8-9weeks.... Or roll the dice and take your chances if your fish will fight it off or die , those are the only real options I had ich out break when I first set up my 125g years ago decided it was worth it to put in the work to catch and treat the fish fallow the tank and from that moment on all my fish are QT before entering cause I know the work involved Just my 2 cents
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Current tank---125 gallon mixed reef 60 gallon sump, Reef octopus nw200 skimmer, Rapid LEDs, Maxspec gyre, Mp10s, Fuge, Biweekly 20% WC, QT everything |
#4
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![]() Just for the record, currently the recommended fallow period is a minimum of 76 days.
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#5
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![]() My Purple Tang once had ick when first introduce to the tank. I didn't do anything to treat him. Just let him be. Feed normally. Took a week to rid. I never seen any ick since.
In my case, let them be and try not to stress them out. |
#6
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![]() This is my experience, it is not in accordance with accepted practise.
I had an ich outbreak in my display years ago. I never quarantine. I under-stock. I have low to no nitrates. I raised the temperature and did nothing else. The ich went away. It is possible that the disease we know as "ich" is several different diseases. This could explain why the above approach works for some people and not for others.
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120 gallon sps/anemones/LPS reef since 2004 Apex controller 8 x 54 watt T5 PowerModule Herbie's silent overflow system Jebao DC 12000 return pump Jecod CP-40 Cross-flow circulation device Mini Bubble King 180 Barr Aquatics calcium reactor Bucket fuge |
#7
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![]() I appreciate the input, thank you
I actually reverted to "ginger powder" which I have used in the past and it works great... This time I have done it for a few days and all but the powder tang have dropped the white spots and stopped breathing heavy... I know its part of the cycle but the spots were there for days... Been feeding the medicated pellets and they all eat them except the picasso trigger... |