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#1
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![]() Ive always thought the deep tanks looked so cool so tonight I picked up a new 250 G deep demension tank 60"W 36"D 27"T and a 75 gal for the sump. the house I live in is going up for sale and the 120 is roughly 10 years oldso perfect time for an upgrade! Im setting up the new tank in my shop.
the tank backs on to the bathroom so Ill be able to store my 55gal drum in there for WC and just run hoses thru the wall and Im going to have a couple 15A GFCI circuits and I will have 2 mag 9s one in the sump and one in the WC drum and havent decided if Ill tie them into the apex or Ill just have manual switches to control the outlets they are plugged into so water changes will be as simple as flip switch wait, turn off switch flip another switch wait and turn off switch. I will be building the stand and will have a seperate electrical section accessible from the side doors. I will be buying another evergrow IT2012 since Im happy with the 1 I have but it wont do the 3 feet front to back spread. I dont think it will have a problem covering the 5 foot width since its only 6" each side. Its got the durso standpipes but I will be running a herbie and the returns will come over the back. pics of the tank tomorrow and hopefully I can build the stand, sump and plumb it over the next few days and have water in it by mid next week!
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250G DD LED SPS R.I.P. 180G LED SPS 80"x36". 300G custom build Owner of Mountain Ridge Heating and Gas Class A gas fitter, HVAC |
#2
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![]() I think I will make my sump baffles 15" tall which is 56 gal total volume leaving me 19 gal of room for overflow volume which I think is plenty.
every inch of height in the DT tank is 9 1/4 gal so if DT height drops an inch and the overflow drains down to the fully submerged drain like 6-8" down it leaves me some room for play but maximizes my total water volume. does anyone see any issues with my calculations?
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250G DD LED SPS R.I.P. 180G LED SPS 80"x36". 300G custom build Owner of Mountain Ridge Heating and Gas Class A gas fitter, HVAC |
#3
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![]() Baffles that tall will mean your skimmer will not be working at optimum since most skimmers do best in 8" to 10" of water. You could build a stand for the skimmer but that just seems an unnecessary complication.
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#4
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![]() I've Always had a stand for my skimmer. I just cut 6 pieces of PVC and a sheet of eggcrate
I think it's pointless to have a large sump to only fill it with 8" of water. That's only like 30 gal.
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250G DD LED SPS R.I.P. 180G LED SPS 80"x36". 300G custom build Owner of Mountain Ridge Heating and Gas Class A gas fitter, HVAC |
#5
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![]() All that sounds fine, and the math is good. Looking forward to pics.
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#6
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![]() need more rockwork done?
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Guide to building super awesome rock structures / my tank journal http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/sho...d.php?t=116410 |
#7
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![]() I'm the opposite. I like having extra unused volume in my sump to catch water from the display in case of power outage. But then again, my return is drilled several inches down and so quite a large volume drains from the display. Knowing I have excess capacity in the sump helps me sleep better. Also, my sump is a 90g wide, so it's only 18" tall, which means with a 9" baffle, I have 45g volume filled and 45g to spare.
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#8
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250G DD LED SPS R.I.P. 180G LED SPS 80"x36". 300G custom build Owner of Mountain Ridge Heating and Gas Class A gas fitter, HVAC |
#9
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![]() Quote:
I figure this tank will drain 10-12 gal so having 20 for spare is fine for me. Cheers
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250G DD LED SPS R.I.P. 180G LED SPS 80"x36". 300G custom build Owner of Mountain Ridge Heating and Gas Class A gas fitter, HVAC |
#10
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![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() heres some pics. the stand will have doors on in front on the sump with 2x4 bracing between the doors and the right side will have doors to access the controller and electronics which will be partitioned off from the sump, which will have bracing as well.
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250G DD LED SPS R.I.P. 180G LED SPS 80"x36". 300G custom build Owner of Mountain Ridge Heating and Gas Class A gas fitter, HVAC Last edited by e46er; 04-09-2016 at 06:51 AM. |