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#11
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![]() The wet/dry trickle filter was meant to provide a surface area for aerobic bacteria to break down waste... the trouble with them was that in that environment the waste was broken down into nitrate. In a planted freshwater system that might have been fine but its exactly what you want to avoid in a reef tank. This is why we run skimmers on saltwater tanks, to remove the waste before it has a chance to breakdown into nitrate. Anaerobic bacteria is what we employ live rock and deep sand beds for. Its the bacteria that doesn't like oxygen but consumes nitrate.
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"We shall dive down through black abysses... and in that lair of the Deep Ones we shall dwell amidst wonder and glory forever." - H.P. Lovecraft Old 120gal Tank Journal New 225gal Tank Journal May 2010 TOTM The 10th Annual Prince George Reef Tank Tour |
#12
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Forms of bacterial overgrowth were linked to the specific type of carbon source in a post on RC. There was waterborne, surface and then stringy mucous. I have seen all three in tanks. I like the dosing methodology as it's easier to control and change dosage if necessary.
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www.oceanfreshaquarium.com/foz-down.html - Foz Down - an easy way to eliminate algae outbreaks caused by Phosphate and bring back the fun of reef keeping. |
#13
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![]() Gonna agree with Tim here. You will get bacterial aggregation in the water column of a vodka dosed system given everything is done correctly (properly skimming, flow, no preexisting "bad" bacterial overgrowth, etc). Bacterial guilds can exist in amazing diversity in reef tanks and will occupy all strata given the opportunity.
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#14
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![]() So then can you run pellets to reduce nitrates and dose vodka like once in a while compared to every day to still promote water borne bacteria?
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Budget doesn't exist in this hobby: 45G Build Clam Specific IM Lagoon 25G Build -Brian |
#15
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![]() Actually wet/dry is purely for aerobic bacteria (ammonia & nitrite consuming) whereas Hydroton also provides an anaerobic environment inside the porous clay balls for nitrate consuming anaerobic bacteria. Wet/dry systems worked for fish only tanks but were nitrate factories so bad for reef tanks.
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#16
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![]() I ran a wet dri with a reef never had any issues. It's totally fine to use unless somehow dead fish or full pieces of shrimp somehow end up in it
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#17
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They're both more or less doing the same thing. Bacteria are going to exist in equilibrium with the available food sources, so an overdose of carbon sources will cause cloudiness.
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This and that. |
#18
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Red Sea REEFER 450 |
#19
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The methodology for dosing vinegar/vodka is not to promote the bacteria to become waterborne, and if you are able to see it in your water column, the dosage is too high and has caused a bacteria bloom. This can actually brown out your corals, thus, my belief in that the corals are not consuming it. Furthermore, I believe vinegar/vodka dosing also feeds Cyanobacteria, however, some research suggests that Vinegar does not. My experience has been both do. Here is a good article on dosing and an excerpt from it: http://reefkeeping.com/joomla/index....arine-aquarium "Scientific research has found that cyanobacterial growth does not increase when dosing vinegar (acetate), where it was found that ethanol dosing will increase cyanobacterial growth. Cyanobacteria produce PHA to store energy when needed. PHA is an ingredient in some biopellets. So cyanobacteria can utilize some if not all of the biopellets. Hobbyists who have dosed vinegar have reported less cyanobacterial problems compared to dosing biopellets & ethanol. This was my experience as well" As someone who has tried and tested, vinegar/vodka dosing, bio-pellets and nitraguard bio-cubes. Bio-cubes are the only way to go. |
#20
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![]() Quote:
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2003-01/eb/index.htm Quote:
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www.oceanfreshaquarium.com/foz-down.html - Foz Down - an easy way to eliminate algae outbreaks caused by Phosphate and bring back the fun of reef keeping. |