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#1
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![]() I like to have my system as simple as possible as that way there is less to go wrong. I do not use bio pellets and a reactor to control Nitrates. I find that just using vodka/vinegar on a dosing pump is more than adequate to keep the nitrates manageable. For phosphate control I use a liquid Phosphate binder called Foz Down. I started making Foz Down as a way to help people have more success with their tanks. I found the ingredient in Foz Down to be very effective in managing Phosphates in my own systems and I was buying it in bulk. It is expensive for the higher grade. I made a size and concentration suitable for people to use which would not break the bank. LoL. An 8oz bottle which neutralizes 10.7 mg/l of Phosphate in a 180 gallon aquarium is 29.95 + shipping.
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www.oceanfreshaquarium.com/foz-down.html - Foz Down - an easy way to eliminate algae outbreaks caused by Phosphate and bring back the fun of reef keeping. |
#2
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![]() I always find it quite fascinating how differently everyone interprets "simple". For me, I would consider dosing vodka/vinegar and foz more complicated. I'm not meaning to debate it here, just pointing out the differing perspectives that hobbysts have, especially when it comes to carbon dosing of any form
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#3
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![]() Quote:
![]() ![]() I do dose FozDown to control phosphates, but I prefer to gurgle my own alcohol supply, rather than feed it to my tanks ![]() |
#4
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![]() One of the added benefits of dosing vodka vinegar is that you are creating waterborne bacteria. Your corals can then feed off them. I have a green and gold torch coral in a clients tank. It has added 10 new heads in about a year with no target feeding.
When you use a reactor in the sump you are not directly effecting the water in the display due to slow flow rates through the reactors. When you dose the vodka/vinegar and Foz Down it goes into the tank and can remove the nitrates and phosphates before the algae uses it. Thus starving the algae. Sometimes direct dosing of Foz Down into the display tank is the only way to get rid of stubborn algae.
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www.oceanfreshaquarium.com/foz-down.html - Foz Down - an easy way to eliminate algae outbreaks caused by Phosphate and bring back the fun of reef keeping. |
#5
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![]() If you want to remove nitrates: IMO the only way to go is Nitraguard Biocubes! Its simple, and proven highly effective. I have personally tested it against vinegar and bio pellets and would never turn back. None of the common complaints others have had with vinegar and bio pellets.
"One of the added benefits of dosing vodka vinegar is that you are creating waterborne bacteria. Your corals can then feed off them" I would have to disagree that the bacteria is waterborne and feeding corals. Vodka/Vinegar is a carbon source that will feed the bacteria and aid in concentrating on a surface. Bio Pellets are a surface which is designed to promote habitat for the bacteria. Nitraguard Bio-cubes have been designed around redfield ratio, essentially allowing you to remove nitrate if you have no available phosphate. |
#6
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![]() Back in the day...I used to run a wet/dry trickle filter through bioballs. The thought here was that water running through the plastic bioballs would give lots more surface area for bacteria to grow on. It seems that is the idea with the Hydroton and biopellets just build on that idea but give the bacteria a food source as well.
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Red Sea REEFER 450 |
#7
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![]() The wet/dry trickle filter was meant to provide a surface area for aerobic bacteria to break down waste... the trouble with them was that in that environment the waste was broken down into nitrate. In a planted freshwater system that might have been fine but its exactly what you want to avoid in a reef tank. This is why we run skimmers on saltwater tanks, to remove the waste before it has a chance to breakdown into nitrate. Anaerobic bacteria is what we employ live rock and deep sand beds for. Its the bacteria that doesn't like oxygen but consumes nitrate.
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"We shall dive down through black abysses... and in that lair of the Deep Ones we shall dwell amidst wonder and glory forever." - H.P. Lovecraft Old 120gal Tank Journal New 225gal Tank Journal May 2010 TOTM The 10th Annual Prince George Reef Tank Tour |
#8
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![]() Quote:
Forms of bacterial overgrowth were linked to the specific type of carbon source in a post on RC. There was waterborne, surface and then stringy mucous. I have seen all three in tanks. I like the dosing methodology as it's easier to control and change dosage if necessary.
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www.oceanfreshaquarium.com/foz-down.html - Foz Down - an easy way to eliminate algae outbreaks caused by Phosphate and bring back the fun of reef keeping. |
#9
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![]() Actually wet/dry is purely for aerobic bacteria (ammonia & nitrite consuming) whereas Hydroton also provides an anaerobic environment inside the porous clay balls for nitrate consuming anaerobic bacteria. Wet/dry systems worked for fish only tanks but were nitrate factories so bad for reef tanks.
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