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#1
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![]() Ah ha!
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#2
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![]() My RODI came with the ASV that's pictured in Mindy's post. I could never get it to work properly from day 1. No hammering issues and the mechanical float valve shut the product water off just fine, but the ASV would continue to allow waste water through. Last year I decided to remove the darn thing since I never used it anyway. I only make water when I'm home, don't trust automation, fear of flood, so ASV is redundant in my case. After removal & a bit of replumbing due to the now absent ASV, I happily found a reduced pressure drop between source water input & RO membrane input (meaning more pressure present at RO input). This should make the membrane more efficient, or at the very least increase production rate of pure water. Difficult to tell for sure since product rate increase I've experienced isn't documented, but in the end, I'm glad to be rid of one more piece of finicky hardware.
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Mike 77g sumpless SW DIY 10 watt multi-chip LED build ![]() Last edited by mike31154; 01-26-2016 at 07:43 PM. |
#3
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![]() Hi Mike.
This is the one that I installed to replace the white straight through one... http://www.purewaterproducts.com/products/rc301 It is classified as a U-type ASV. For some reason it gives 6 psi more pressure to the holding tank, which works better for the ice maker. Got a 50 gpd membrane coming for the holding tank in the fish room. But that room won't be free until my son moves out... again! ![]() Cheers, T |