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#1
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![]() eek! The one I'd need is $1300... and I'd need 2
![]() That could very well be. I actually have no problems with the pumps. For some reason it's the controllers. I'm just going to find a way to run these and turf these crappy controllers. I have 3 DC12000's that have got probably less than a few months running time combined! |
#2
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![]() Don't be a baby
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#3
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![]() Lol. Usually when I'm spending that kind of dough it's for my shop
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#4
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#5
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#6
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#7
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![]() You already have the MW power supply rated at 24 VDC, 8.8 amps. That's roughly 211 watts. The photo you posted of the pump specs shows a max of 170 watts. Have you tried hooking the power supply directly to the pump? Should work if you wish to run it at full speed. Just need to confirm polarity of the leads. The 3rd wire is no doubt feedback to the controller & not needed if running at full bore without control circuitry.
If you're handy with a soldering iron & really liked the way the 1st gen controller worked, try replacing the electrolytic capacitors on the board, the firecracker cans. Quite often these fail & render the rest of the electronics useless. Sometimes you can see the failure in the form of bulging at the top of the can. Many an expensive electronic component has been trashed due to failure of a few cheap capacitors in the power supply. They're only a few $$s each & worth a try to see if it will resurrect the original controller.
__________________
Mike 77g sumpless SW DIY 10 watt multi-chip LED build ![]() |
#8
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![]() Quote:
![]() I have a project on the horizon that involves DUAL high current BLDC controller with integrated I2C control ![]() I understand the need of these manufacturers to "compact" these units to make it easier to hide, however my issue is with lack of cooling which in the end reduces overall life of the unit. My idea always been over engineer it and make sure that the unit can drive 5 to 10 times its normal workload. Would you not pay more money to know your never have to upgrade another controller ?? |