Basement 280 Gallon Build:

Myka · #1 09-30-2015, 01:49 PM

It looks like you have a great location! A general comment about 30" deep tanks is that unless you're really tall and lanky, you're not going to be able to touch the bottom of the tank without getting your armpit wet, and you certainly won't be able to touch the sand at the front of the tank once the rocks are in when you only have access from one side. You will definitely have to learn to be good at using tongs.

I do have to say though, that a 30" tall viewing pane is soooo much more pleasing than a 24" tall viewing pane. Imo, if you're going 30" tall, I'd also go 30" wide. For saltwater tanks, it is so much easier to aquascape the rocks when the height and width are either the same or the width is greater than the height.

So...what do you have planned for equipment? What type of corals?

WarDog · #2 09-30-2015, 03:26 PM

I would make the same suggestion as Myka, you want to maximize depth. What is that white boxed area in the middle of the fish room? A shower or a closet? Any chance you could relocate it?

gregzz4 · #3 09-30-2015, 07:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WarDog

What is that white boxed area in the middle of the fish room? A shower or a closet? Any chance you could relocate it?

Looks like the floor. I'd leave it where it is

Delphinus · #4 09-30-2015, 08:04 PM

You will always appreciate more front-to-back dimension. 24" seems like a lot, but when you consider 30" of height, 24" will seem smaller. For example if you were to flip the dimensions so that you had 30" of depth (front to back is depth) and 24" of height, you'd need less light intensity AND would have much better options for aquascaping.

I have my tank in a similar configuration, except mine is 72x30x30 (also coincidentally 280g). It is not accessible in front at all so I do have to do the wet armpit thing but that I don't mind so much. I wanted the 30" height for visual appeal and swimming room, but if I were to go back I'd go shorter because it's dificult to get enough light to the lower levels. All was well when I ran 400w halides, but then I switched to LED and things just were never the same. I'm actually considering going back to halides. LED just doesn't compare with this height, you wouldn't think 24" vs 30" would make such a difference but it really does.

Seth81 · #5 10-01-2015, 02:45 PM

Its a shower, and nope can't move it as the drain is located there, and we can't easily move the drain as the basement slab has radiant heat.

Quote:

Originally Posted by WarDog

I would make the same suggestion as Myka, you want to maximize depth. What is that white boxed area in the middle of the fish room? A shower or a closet? Any chance you could relocate it?

Seth81 · #6 10-01-2015, 02:43 PM

My current tank is 38" tall, so no worries about tongs!! Ha ha ha...

I agree about the 30" wide too, just might have to stick out more into the play room, because I don't have a ton of room by the shower there.

I've kept SPS corals before, and I think that will be the plan for this one too. I may recycle some of my current equipment; BRS dosing pumps, DIY ATO using ultrasonic level ttransmitter etc...

Quote:

Originally Posted by Myka

It looks like you have a great location! A general comment about 30" deep tanks is that unless you're really tall and lanky, you're not going to be able to touch the bottom of the tank without getting your armpit wet, and you certainly won't be able to touch the sand at the front of the tank once the rocks are in when you only have access from one side. You will definitely have to learn to be good at using tongs.

I do have to say though, that a 30" tall viewing pane is soooo much more pleasing than a 24" tall viewing pane. Imo, if you're going 30" tall, I'd also go 30" wide. For saltwater tanks, it is so much easier to aquascape the rocks when the height and width are either the same or the width is greater than the height.

So...what do you have planned for equipment? What type of corals?

Myka · #7 10-01-2015, 02:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Seth81

My current tank is 38" tall, so no worries about tongs!! Ha ha ha...

I agree about the 30" wide too, just might have to stick out more into the play room, because I don't have a ton of room by the shower there.

I've kept SPS corals before, and I think that will be the plan for this one too. I may recycle some of my current equipment; BRS dosing pumps, DIY ATO using ultrasonic level ttransmitter etc...

Ah, you're a Tong Master!

I agree, I wouldn't want to cut down on the space in the back, I'd put it out into the room more.

As far as equipment goes I was more interested in things like skimmer and lights.

sphelps · #8 10-01-2015, 03:35 PM

I think protruding it out is a mistake, it would look much better flush with the wall with a nice frame around the tank and fit better with a modern contemporary design if that is what you are going for. I'd also make use of the all awkward space and just extend the tank all the way back to the shower wall making it around 40" deep (maybe ~36" to leave room for an external overflow). Full access from the front and partial from the back is really all you'll need. You'll want to keep equipment away from that bedroom wall, not just for noise but any leaks or spills will ruin that carpet in a hurry. Putting equipment on that back bathroom wall would allow clean plumbing to wrap around the corner and gives you a straight shot to the existing floor drain.

sphelps · #9 10-01-2015, 03:43 PM

Also consider a viewable panel in the bathroom, using a boat window or something

Seth81 · #10 10-01-2015, 04:04 PM

Well I must admit I do have some concerns with the protruding concept

1. How to finish off the sides of the wall where the glass meets the wall
2. Building front access panels maybe more difficult
3. Clutters the room by not having a straight path from stairs to the theater

Actually in general I am not too sure how to make an access panel with that sort of masonry work on it. I spoke with the masons working on the exterior of my house, and they said making a joint within the stone work was a bad idea, and would look bad. So I guess I could make one 8 foot long 42" tall panel above the tank that hods all that stone, but I think it would weigh a ton, and not too sure how I could attach it to a frame, I don't think magnets would cut it.

Yes, this i a very modern looking house, it's off topic but I do have the rest of the house modeled, as its a custom build as well.

I do agree a "L" shaped tank would best utilize the space, but I think it would be front only viewing, despite your port hole idea! LOL I wonder if an "L" shaped tank would have issues with getting proper flow.

Quote:

Originally Posted by sphelps

I think protruding it out is a mistake, it would look much better flush with the wall with a nice frame around the tank and fit better with a modern contemporary design if that is what you are going for. I'd also make use of the all awkward space and just extend the tank all the way back to the shower wall making it around 40" deep (maybe ~36" to leave room for an external overflow). Full access from the front and partial from the back is really all you'll need. You'll want to keep equipment away from that bedroom wall, not just for noise but any leaks or spills will ruin that carpet in a hurry. Putting equipment on that back bathroom wall would allow clean plumbing to wrap around the corner and gives you a straight shot to the existing floor drain.