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#1
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![]() Yes, but this one is not done very professionally. The corner edges should be rounded. I agree though, it is not the prettiest solution.
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#2
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![]() This process doesn't need to be done with trial and error. Simple beam formulas exist that anyone could follow.
Max deflection of a cantilevered beam is dmax=P*L^3/(3*E*I) P = Load or weight of fixture (/2 for 2 supports) (Newtons, kg*10) L = beam length (meters) E = Modulus (70e9 Pa for aluminium) I = Moment of Inertia = pi*(d0^4-di^4)/64 for tube/pipe (m^4) Simple stuff, easy to back calculate for I for a desired amount of displacement (ie 3mm) then determine the OD tube needed. Alternatively calculate the displacement a steal rod will create to get an idea if inserting a piece inside the tube will be worth while. I for a solid rod is = (pi*d^4)/64. For example, aluminium tube 12.7mm x 8mm will displace 13.8mm with 2.5kg applied at the end of a 0.5m length of tube. A solid tube of steel with an OD of 7mm will displace 44mm with the same weight and length. You could conclude from this that the steel insert will not be very beneficial. |
#3
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![]() Another option if you're rebuilding is to use stainless 304 tube. Switching to 304 from aluminum with the same dimensions will give you close to 3x the stiffness and and can be brushed to look just like aluminium. It's also available in solid rod for greater strength, although you don't gain that much. 1/2" Ornamental stainless tube looks to be around $3.50 a foot, solid rod is a bit more at closer to $5 a foot. That's metal supermarket prices which I believe will ship to Stoon, but you might find a local source cheaper.
Also I see you mentioned longer radius bends, keep in mind encase you didn't know, bigger radius means more flexibility, so shorter bends offer greater stiffness. |