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  #11  
Old 09-13-2015, 11:07 PM
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Is that your foot? What the hell did you do to your toe?

Last edited by WarDog; 09-13-2015 at 11:46 PM.
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  #12  
Old 09-14-2015, 12:31 AM
intarsiabox intarsiabox is offline
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I would just brace the bend with two pieces of aluminum flat bar. Just put a piece on each side of the tube at a 45° angle so the bend now looks like a triangle, drill a say 1/4" size hole through the bars and tube at both ends and put a 1/4" bolt through the holes and tighten up with a nylock nut. This method does take up some real estate on both the horizontal and vertical part of your tube and I'm not sure how much you have to spare. Hope this made any type of sense at all.
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  #13  
Old 09-14-2015, 01:18 AM
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Yes it makes sense. I was thinking along those lines too, but want to come up with a cleaner look than that.

I have some spared lengths so I'm going to try making a bigger radius bend. That might help enough.

If all else fails I'll hang it fron the ceiling, but I'm trying to avoid the industrial style look of that.
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Old 09-14-2015, 01:42 AM
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If you are going to bend a new one, what about inserting a steel rod before you bend the aluminum. It will be harder to bend, but a lot stronger. And it will still look shiny
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  #15  
Old 09-14-2015, 02:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hillegom View Post
If you are going to bend a new one, what about inserting a steel rod before you bend the aluminum. It will be harder to bend, but a lot stronger. And it will still look shiny
I thought about trying to get a steel rod in there, but I overthought it and didn't think about inserting the rod before bending. How brilliant! I'll give this a try.
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Old 09-14-2015, 03:12 PM
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From my aircraft building experience: Two ways to do it.

1. Cut two pieces of same tube about 3 inches. Use a suitable size round file to shape the ends to fit over the bent tube to form a triangle corner support. Leave the ends slightly longer to form tabs where you drill and rivet to the main tube. And/or you can rivet the sides for extra strength and stability. Shape and file the edges to make it fit perfectly and look pretty. This will be the most professional finish.

2. Cut two small triangle aluminum gussets to fit on each side of the bent tube, and rivet (4 rivets per gusset). File to round the edges and it will look pretty good as well.

Also note that you should not mix aluminum and steel. Dissimilar metals cause corrosion and will eventually lose strength and loosen up.
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Old 09-14-2015, 03:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WarDog View Post
Is that your foot? What the hell did you do to your toe?
That's just a bit of nail lacquer that I haven't managed to pick off yet.

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Originally Posted by Reef Pilot View Post
Also note that you should not mix aluminum and steel. Dissimilar metals cause corrosion and will eventually lose strength and loosen up.
I was a bit concerned about that, but I thought it took dampness to cause an issue. What if I wrap the steel in something first, like Tuck Tape or vapor barrier plastic?

Otherwise, option #1 sounds nice.
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Old 09-14-2015, 03:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Myka View Post
I was a bit concerned about that, but I thought it took dampness to cause an issue. What if I wrap the steel in something first, like Tuck Tape or vapor barrier plastic?
Otherwise, option #1 sounds nice.
That's true, but humidity is enough to start corrosion. With aircraft we use zinc chromate epoxy for all joints which seals against moisture, and is also a glue for extra strength. But you can't buy that stuff in a regular hardware store.

Not sure how heavy the fixture is, but bear in mind this only strengthens the bent tube area, and if your tube size isn't large enough, you could still get bending and flex with the weight.

If you need more strength overall, you can make the cut tubes (or gusset) longer. A larger gusset can also be rounded on the outboard side towards the middle to provide more clearance if necessary (and it will look prettier). For the gussets, I would use .040" or .060 sheet pieces. Your local metal shop usually have scrap bins, and should let you pick out small pieces at no cost. Oh, and use T6 6061 aluminum for superior corrosion resistance.
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  #19  
Old 09-14-2015, 03:39 PM
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With the steel tube insert method, you could also use linseed oil (should be able to buy it a hardware store) inside and seal the ends (with epoxy). If there is no air (O2) then it will not corrode.
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  #20  
Old 09-14-2015, 03:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reef Pilot View Post
That's true, but humidity is enough to start corrosion. With aircraft we use zinc chromate epoxy for all joints which seals against moisture, and is also a glue for extra strength. But you can't buy that stuff in a regular hardware store.
So is it a reasonable solution to seal the steel away from the aluminum then?

Quote:
Not sure how heavy the fixture is, but bear in mind this only strengthens the bent tube area, and if your tube size isn't large enough, you could still get bending and flex with the weight.
About 18 lbs.

Quote:
If you need more strength overall, you can make the cut tubes (or gusset) longer. A larger gusset can also be rounded on the outboard side towards the middle to provide more clearance if necessary (and it will look prettier). For the gussets, I would use .040" or .060 sheet pieces. Your local metal shop usually have scrap bins, and should let you pick out small pieces at no cost. Oh, and use T6 6061 aluminum for superior corrosion resistance.
I really don't want a gusset. You mean something like this, right?
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