DYI Stand Plan, how is this idea?

monocus · #1 05-17-2015, 02:56 PM

in the back i put studs every 16 inches,but i dado them out so they are removable and can be easily be replaced.the double joist in the front helps carry more weight if you are putting doors on the front of your stand

Easto · #2 05-17-2015, 03:08 PM

Sweet, makes sense. Thanks for the help.

coolhandgoose · #3 05-17-2015, 05:26 PM

Spend lots of time picking your wood. Look for cupping, warping, twisting. If you have a table saw, run it through one side, then shorten the fence and run the other side for more square edges. 2x4s tend to have rounded edges. Check out the beginning of my build thread to see what I did.
Good luck!

Duckhams · #4 07-01-2015, 12:17 AM

Im definitely not going to dissuade you from over building it, a strong stand is a good stand, but this is one I built a while back and it was seriously over built. Remember that most commercial stands are only plywood, and they hold up. Some well chosen, straight (as best you can find) 2x4's and you'll be fine. You have a solid start there (no pun intended).
I should note that the final build had a center brace in the back and one in the middle of the top surface. I used a 1/2" plyboard top and bottom which really made it solid, and skinned it with 1/4" ply.

Easto · #5 07-01-2015, 02:33 AM

I want to do the top, front, back, and sides in plywood. Maple or birch depending if I'm staining vs painting.

What thickness do you recommend?

Screw the plywood or nail it?

reefwithareefer · #6 07-01-2015, 04:10 AM

The only 2 cents i will say, is that you may want to consider fir 2x4s and not spruce. Fir is much less likely to deflect

monocus · #7 07-01-2015, 06:26 AM

i use 3/4 birch as it is only 37 dollars a sheet and stains up well,maple doesn't take stain well and is about twice the price.the sides i usually use 1/4 rotary mahogany-23 dollars a sheet

Duckhams · #8 07-01-2015, 01:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Easto

I want to do the top, front, back, and sides in plywood. Maple or birch depending if I'm staining vs painting.

What thickness do you recommend?

Screw the plywood or nail it?

1/2" on top is more than enough. If you're using the 2x4's then 1/4" sheets on the back and sides are easiest to work with and keep the weight down. Screw the 1/2" down and use finishing nails for the back panel. Either could work on the sides, depending on what sort of style you're going for.
Add a good coat of KILZ waterproofer inside and seal the inside panels (at least a couple of inches up from the bottom panel)to prevent water leakage/damage later on. This will save your floor too. No matter how hard you try something will spill, overflow, splash etc.

intarsiabox · #9 07-01-2015, 05:32 PM

I've seen one neat rick but haven't tried it myself. You take a small V chisel and make an incision to lift up a piece of the plywood with it where you want to place a finishing nail. Tap the nail in and then add a dap of wood glue on top of the nail and fold the piece of ply wood pack into place. Sand a bit when dry. The nails are completely hidden. Myself I prefer to use screws on the sheeting and then glue a piece of matching wood molding over top of the heads. You can get some really nice molding that really make the stand look like a piece of furniture rather than a plywood box.