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#1
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![]() Bwahahahahahahaha. Clearly, yes.
And I do believe metal halide lighting is just school. Not old school. Old school is rocking an 8 track deck. Theres lots of us out there still running MH, its not like we're having to go through catacombs for old parts and stuff, you can still buy bulbs and fixtures ![]()
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Christy's Reef Blog My 180 Build Every electronic component is shipped with smoke stored deep inside.... only a real genius can find a way to set it free. |
#2
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![]() I have looked at going to metal halides but my only concern was heat. I live in a condo and it gets quite warm in the summer. Using a fan and LEDs I can keep the temperature where I want it. Not sure how much a metal halide would raise the temperature. Also wasn't sure if 250w was enough and HQI or mogul. Was confusing to someone who came into the hobby when LEDs were the norm.
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#3
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![]() yeah LEDs are a definite saviour for those dealing with heat issues. Im lucky that my tank is in the basement where its 18-23C year round. I might have considered LEDs if I had heat issues. Ah who am I kidding, I would have saved myself from having to remortgage the house for them and bought a chiller instead
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Christy's Reef Blog My 180 Build Every electronic component is shipped with smoke stored deep inside.... only a real genius can find a way to set it free. |
#4
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![]() when you said old school, I was expecting VHO's.
Which I think are still awesome for hot, horribly inefficient fluorescent's. |
#5
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![]() Quote:
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Christy's Reef Blog My 180 Build Every electronic component is shipped with smoke stored deep inside.... only a real genius can find a way to set it free. |
#6
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![]() Quote:
![]() There was a time when i thought there was no way that anything could make corals fluoresce as nicely as the uvl 454 did. LED's these days actually seem to be on par. |
#7
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![]() You'll probably need a chiller on a 20x20x20 with 250W halide Mike. I'd try the 6200 on it first for a bit, since you already have it and all...
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