The why, oh why, 38 stair, 290 gal build revised

[reefwithareefer]

Originally Posted by Myka

Sniff it. Ozone has a particular smell to it, and once you know that smell you can easily recognize it. I'm not sure I could smell ozone over some stinky skimmate though. Use a new bucket in place of the skimmate bucket for 10 mins, then sniff the bucket.

Thanks Myka, That makes sense...
I decided to drill a hole in the bucket lid for a 3/4" hose and then put the hose into the container of carbon that I was originally going to put on top of skimmer.

I think smelling the ozone is still a good idea. At least I will recognize the smell if it does escape etc.

[Myka]

Don't get in the habit of sniffing it. It's bad stuff.

[reefwithareefer]

Originally Posted by Myka

Don't get in the habit of sniffing it. It's bad stuff.

The things I have done since starting this hobby a year ago is probably more of a concern , and none of them made me prettier or smarter either...😜

[reefwithareefer]

It has been three days since starting the ozone and without a doubt, it has made quite the difference. I thought my tank water was pretty "clean", but I can now say it must have been quite yellow. I still have what I think is too many particulates floating around the DT, but the clarity of the water is fantastic.

Colours are much more vivid and corals are more open.
There does not appear to be any negative affects so far. The ORP is hovering around 320! While the PH has dropped to 8.0 from 8.1

I did have some diatoms in the substrate and rocks before the ozone, that seems to have receded by about 60%, this goes for the algae that was caking the glass as well.

The only issue I have now is determining if it was just the ozone or that I lifted up my halide fixture another 2" from top of tank. I also had my daughters 20 gal Seahorse tank connected to the main system. I convinced her to do away with them and turn it into a reef, as she did not clean it properly and I believe that may have been the cause of high nutrients feeding the DT algae.

Hmmmm, Maybe sniffing the ozone will make me smarter and I will learn to do one thing at a time to figure out what changes I do, make what differences....

[Roskoreef]

Originally Posted by reefwithareefer

It has been three days since starting the ozone and without a doubt, it has made quite the difference. I thought my tank water was pretty "clean", but I can now say it must have been quite yellow. I still have what I think is too many particulates floating around the DT, but the clarity of the water is fantastic.

Colours are much more vivid and corals are more open.
There does not appear to be any negative affects so far. The ORP is hovering around 320! While the PH has dropped to 8.0 from 8.1

I did have some diatoms in the substrate and rocks before the ozone, that seems to have receded by about 60%, this goes for the algae that was caking the glass as well.

The only issue I have now is determining if it was just the ozone or that I lifted up my halide fixture another 2" from top of tank. I also had my daughters 20 gal Seahorse tank connected to the main system. I convinced her to do away with them and turn it into a reef, as she did not clean it properly and I believe that may have been the cause of high nutrients feeding the DT algae.

Hmmmm, Maybe sniffing the ozone will make me smarter and I will learn to do one thing at a time to figure out what changes I do, make what differences....

what is your ORP normally, i only ask because im wondering if my probe is off, mine is unsually around 440 and drops whenever i muck up the tank or dose certain stuffs, but always makes its way back up.. although my tank is new..

[reefwithareefer]

Originally Posted by Roskoreef

what is your ORP normally, i only ask because im wondering if my probe is off, mine is unsually around 440 and drops whenever i muck up the tank or dose certain stuffs, but always makes its way back up.. although my tank is new..

My ORP was usually hovering around 270 and hit a high 300 and a low of 250. ORP will fluctuate depending on numerous things. Feeding, what you are dosing, stirring the substrate etc can all cause ORP to go up and down.

You apparently should clean your ORP probe at least once a month in a vinegar bath. It could take a day for the cleaned probe to read properly again.
From what I have read, an ORP of 440 is pretty high and bordering on causing issues for your tank. My understanding is 375 to 400 is a good ORP reading

These articles really helped me understand what ORP/ozone is/does and what causes it to fluctuate, even though scientists do not fully understand ORP either.

It is dry and technical reading, took me reading it 5 times before it begun to sink in, but the links may clear some things up for you.

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2003-12/rhf/feature/

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-03/rhf/index.php

[Myka]

Originally Posted by reefwithareefer

Hmmmm, Maybe sniffing the ozone will make me smarter and I will learn to do one thing at a time to figure out what changes I do, make what differences....

That is a big reefing secret right there.

[sphelps]

For your two pumps you don't need an electric valve, you need two standard check valves, one on each pump outlet. Then it's a simple matter of using a flow sensor or float switch to determined if the main pump shuts off and trigger the back up.

[reefwithareefer]

Originally Posted by sphelps

For your two pumps you don't need an electric valve, you need two standard check valves, one on each pump outlet. Then it's a simple matter of using a flow sensor or float switch to determined if the main pump shuts off and trigger the back up.

That is a great idea. Thanks.
I am assuming I should have the back flows, before the inlets?
Would I use the Apex BOB to trigger the back up?

[sphelps]

Not sure what you mean by back flows and I'm not an apex guy but I assume you need to use a BOB to connect some sort of sensor to determine pump failure. As far as valves and plumbing goes all you need are the two check valves, one on each pump output and that's it.