Hippo tang has white spots

[sdeschutter]

I new I had to take drastic measures. Unbelievable!!!!! What a bunch of blank. Well I guess I have to grab my 33g in the garage and become a vet. First hard lesson learned in my new tank. "Always have a quarantine tank for new fish"

I did some digging and I think I'm going to do the copper treatment. I'm a little scared of the the hypo salinity. Seems like a lot of work and I don't have time each day to be doing all the things involved.


Thanks guy for the input

Wish me luck.....

Btw do you think I could use my old penguin 125 bio wheel penguin filter in the QT?

[sdeschutter]

Ok now I'm really confused what to do. After my last post I did some more reading and ran into this article on Reef Central.

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh...2229271&page=2

I'm liking the tank transfer method, but I am intrigued by the few comments about the UV sterilizer. Some of the members said that they use a UV and have never had a problem with ich.

I should probably let everyone know that my tank is a 90g that is 6 weeks old with 100lbs live rock and has no coral. I have five fish, inverts, snails, and 2 shrimp. My water perimeters are good. My goal is a thriving sps reef tank.

Has anyone used a UV before? With what results for ich and how is the tank doing as a reef?

[Myka]

Having a UV Sterilizer on a tank holding Ich-prone fish like the Hippo Tang is a good idea. A UV Sterilizer interrupts the life cycle of Ich, but the life cycle can be anywhere from about 24-72 days (temperature dependent among of things). Since this is such a long time, a UV Sterilizer is not a good treatment, though it is a good preventive.

As long as the fish is active and eating the tank transfer method is a good option, but if the fish is not in good condition TT, like UV sterilizer, can take too long and the fish may perish. For me, it's about common sense; if the fish is covered in Ich, then treatment with a medication is often the best bet. If the fish has a mild case, then TT may be the best bet.

In regards to your other comments, is this your first reef tank? For a tank that's only 6 weeks old, you have a lot of fish in there already. IMO, you're probably moving a bit too fast. Did you use 100% live rock or did you use dry rock too? Dry rock is not equal to live rock. What brand of test kits are you using to test the tank? Are you using a refractometer or hydrometer for testing salinity? What are the actual numbers you've tested? "Parameters are good" is a bit vague. Just trying to make sure you're on the right track, regardless of the Hippo Tang situation.

[reef-keeper]

If you are doing the copper treatment you have to remove the fish and quarantine them in a separate tank. The copper will leach into the rock and continue to kill the inverts long after the treatment is done. Yes you penguin bio wheel will work fine. Just remove the carbon filter, it will absorb the copper rending it weak.

[sdeschutter]

In regards to your other comments, is this your first reef tank? For a tank that's only 6 weeks old, you have a lot of fish in there already. IMO, you're probably moving a bit too fast. Did you use 100% live rock or did you use dry rock too? Dry rock is not equal to live rock. What brand of test kits are you using to test the tank? Are you using a refractometer or hydrometer for testing salinity? What are the actual numbers you've tested? "Parameters are good" is a bit vague. Just trying to make sure you're on the right track, regardless of the Hippo Tang situation.

No it's no my first reef tank. I never got to the point of sps, but had lps. I had one about 7 years ago, but moved and you know how it goes. Yes I have 100% live rock and a 2 " sand bed, with a sump. My tank cycled in like 3 weeks before the nitrates were at like 0, then I added inverts. Then a couple fish and so on. I use API test kits and a refractometer. I've tested everything with regards to fish. Ph 8.3, ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and nitrate 5 ppm or less. Salinity 1.025, temp 81. I have a vertex in 100 skimmer and that's it.

As for the UV it seems that there are some reefers that use one in the display reef tank and there are others that are dead set against it on a reef system. Should I use a UV on my display tank? Again my goal is a nice Sps tank.

Btw I'll start setting up my tank transfer set up today.

[Myka]

Originally Posted by sdeschutter

No it's no my first reef tank. I never got to the point of sps, but had lps. I had one about 7 years ago, but moved and you know how it goes. Yes I have 100% live rock and a 2 " sand bed, with a sump. My tank cycled in like 3 weeks before the nitrates were at like 0, then I added inverts. Then a couple fish and so on. I use API test kits and a refractometer. I've tested everything with regards to fish. Ph 8.3, ammonia 0, nitrite 0, and nitrate 5 ppm or less. Salinity 1.025, temp 81. I have a vertex in 100 skimmer and that's it.

Sounds like a good start! Maybe a bit fast with the fish addition of 5 in 3 weeks. Once you start getting serious into the corals I would suggest you upgrade your test kits - specifically for calcium, alkalinity, magnesium, nitrate, and phosphate. You don't need them now though. I don't mind API for nitrate and ammonia, though I've had the API kits go kinda wacky when they get older.

As for the UV it seems that there are some reefers that use one in the display reef tank and there are others that are dead set against it on a reef system. Should I use a UV on my display tank? Again my goal is a nice Sps tank.

I can't say I've ever seen issues I could correlate to the use of a UV Sterilizer except maybe on some tanks it adds too much heat. If you have central air conditioning you should be fine though.

Btw I'll start setting up my tank transfer set up today.

Awesome. How's the Hippo doing today?

[sdeschutter]

So what do you suggest for test kits. I already have my calcium magnesium and phosphate test kit but it's an API one. Seachem? The hippo tang seems to be actually doing better the white spots are less, but one of my other fish does have one or two spots on him now. I haven't really had the time yet to set up my hospital tank I'll do it today. I think I'm just going to go us the copper treatment it seems to be the way that has the least amount of work. I was reading that only Seachem ammonia test kits work in a copper treatment tank. Is that true? Can I use my API ammonia tester?

Apparently my biggest concern with the hospital tank with copper is keeping the ammonia down. So once I get the tank set up and I get my little penguin filter running I'm going to put a piece of live rock in the filter to start the bacterial filter. Think that's a good idea? Any suggestions on how to keep my Monias down? How much water should I change? How often? I know I have to be trying to get all the poop and uneaten food as I do a water change but should I do one every three days or two days? what is a good routine?

Thanks for all your input!