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#1
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![]() Just use a filter sock.
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Brad |
#2
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![]() I'm same as brad. Slower sump turn over for longer dwell time and more flow from power heads to keep detritus suspended
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#3
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![]() And then put a fat ball of filter floss in the sock , it's a beautiful thing
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#4
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![]() Usually, water being less clear has more to do with too much flow than too little. I think you're fine anywhere in the 3-8x turnover. You're on the low end, but I doubt that's what's causing the water problem. Is the problem particulates in the water, microbubbles in the water, or color in the water? For particulates, I would also suggest you add a filter sock. You don't have to have it going all the time. I just add it for 12 hours after doing my weekly water change. Zeovit's Coral Snow I find is also really good at clearing up particulates from the water when used regularly. Carbon is good for color in the water, and you have to look at plumbing for microbubbles.
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#5
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![]() I've been running two 7" filter socks since day one. I'll have to give the filter floss a go. Good call Denny. Should make the socks last longer too. I get 2 to 3 days out of the two.
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#6
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![]() I was told by someone that 6x your tank rate is the range you want to be in..
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#7
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![]() I've always been a believer in slower flow through sump for longer dwelling time and greater flow provided by powerheads as well.
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#8
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![]() I think I might be the one that likes the higher turnover,actually it all depends on why the high flow or the low flow,I could tell you why the high in my case.
1st its at low end 7000glns/hr turnover that is about 17 times (as my main display at roughly 400glns) Running that in conjunction with 2 X Jebao WP60 one on either side to give me waves of almost 2" high from top to bottom of the tank with the turnover outlet location near one and enhances the flow throughout the tank leaving no room for dead spot in any section of my tank. I run 2 frag tanks and 3 sumps that are all fed and split at different flow rate directly from my overflow box (so to say one pump runs flow throughout my entire system) that gives me dwelling time for each tank and sumps (one sump 5 foot loaded with rubble and act as criptic) another strictly for my carbon and skimmer, one that holds the water and removes all the crud from the water line and the last for filter floss that runs 24hr prior to water changes and back to the main tank. Call me old school or crazy but it worked for me in years with no issues and I believe if it isn't broke why fix it. Another belief of mine is that everyones main tank is loaded with fish, fish poop, mixed corals,coral slime and all types of bacteria and to top things high lighting to promote growth in all aspect why leave the water on low turnover when you can keep it cleaner with other means through the sump.(skimmer,carbon,floss,maybe GFO,socks,...) I have seen tanks with low turnover maybe 5-7 times with more problems than not. |
#9
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![]() Quote:
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#10
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![]() I'm on the lower end of the scale, 2X turnover.
I don't understand why people are talking about dwell time in a skimmer and sump turnover rate. They're 2 different things aren't they? Turnover rate is what your sump return pump is running at and dwell time has to do with the height and water throughput of your protein skimmer. Correct me if I'm wrong. I prefer as low of a sump turnover rate as possible, while maintaining healthy water parameters in the display tank. I actively feed my corals and don't like the idea of having the food filtered out soon after I add it. I keep on top of the tank parameters by measuring phosphorus and nitrate levels, weekly for now.
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Mitch |