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#1
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![]() Quarantine is going well
I'm using MB7 (used to use Stability) If you missed it, I started the tank with a couple Aquaclear sponges that have been in my sump for over a year (thanks again for the great idea Brad) 2 days in and no Ammo at all, Nitrites are between 0 and 0.01, and I'm already seeing Nitrates (waaaay below 2) All fish are eating frozen, some are eating pellets and flakes, and of course the tang goes nuts for nori No signs yet of anything to treat for ... and I'm a bit surprised No spots, flashing, shaking, stringy poops, white poops, lack of appetite, disinterest in surroundings ... can't think of anything else No offence J&L, but considering what some of the other fish in the tank looked like I'm very pleased Once again J&L rocks !! I picked over their tanks for everything I brought home as they didn't have much to choose from So, of course, once I filled my QT, they got not 1 but 2 fish shipments C'est La Vie Still super happy with what we have More pics to come once they start to trust me |
#2
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![]() Wow Greg, Santa came early eh!
![]() I love yellow tangs, I'm sure he'll chomp those GHA in your rocks. Good luck with the new tank mates. |
#3
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![]() crimper, I'm sure you're right !! And thanks for the wishes
Our new charges have been in QT for 2 weeks now All are eating very well, albeit their own foods If you missed it, I've been using MB7 and am quite happy with it No spikes to worry about, although I started off with an established set of foam blocks for my aquaclear50 I've only been performing 50% WCs once a week, and my NO2/NO3 readings have been near nil. Much better results than the last time I did this when I used Seachem's Stability. Although maybe I've been better with my feeding practices this time around. Who knows I'm 2 days into a Prazi treatment as I suspect worms plus there's the odd shaking and flashing, then I'll give them a couple days off from meds I'm nicely surprised to see nobody has lost their appetite during the current treatment I'm hoping I don't end up with Coralgurl's dilemma where her tangs kept eating the poop thus eating the intestinal worms ... my stupid tang eats every poop he sees ![]() Next they'll get some Furan-2 as there are some other things to address; I have no idea what little white 'horns' there were on 2 of the female Anthias' heads that disappeared after a couple days It left a dent on one poor girl's noggin behind her eyes on top of her head Plus a wrasse has a white mark directly on her eye, and some of the anthias are flashing on hardware So Furan-2 it is I'll re-assess things after that but it looks like I won't be running a hypo this time around The final introduction to the DT will be; Yellow Tang right off as he can fend for himself Next will be the female wrasses into the holding tank I've built and they'll most likely be in there for the majority of a week while the other wrasses calm down Finally, after I get the Anthias eating pellets, they will have their turn in the holding tank for a day or 5, just to make sure none of the wrasses want to eat them ![]() Wish me luck Here's the holding tank I've built, but it's not finished I still need to clean up the sharp edges and fit it to the DT so it 'hangs' where I want it to It's 20x10x5 and will hang off the left side and center support This gives lots of clearance to the corals, although I don't know what will happen a year from now I realise it's only 4 gallons of space. It's just a holding tank Jim, and that's all I can give her ![]() I 'euro-braced' it so I could screw on an access cover ![]() Cover is opaque to help keep the sun burns away I haven't finished the cover yet, or it's fasteners ... It still needs a bunch of holes drilled ![]() I scabbed a crappy hole (rushed the jigsaw and cracked it) out the bottom that needs some serious cleanup, and there's a cover plate that needs some fasteners This is for when I'm ready to release fish ![]() May not work as a fish trap in future, but will be a handy time-out tank for anyone naughty |
#4
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![]() I like your DIY skills.
Sometimes flukes attach to eyes and look opaque . Good plan with the prazipro |
#5
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![]() Thanks D
![]() I hope you're right and the Prazi clears up her eye Merry Christmas all |
#6
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![]() X-mas eve I developed a cough that turned into a full-blown Flu/Chest virus that knocked me on my padding from X-mas morning through to Sunday night.
Because of this, I didn't notice the MI developing in the QT. We lost all 4 female Lyretails. Sorry girls. I did a 50% WC at the end of the Prazi treatment and then proceeded to start dropping the Sg. Because of work it took me until today to get it down all the way so today marks Hypo: Day 1. On the plus side, the rather alarming amount of ich on all 4 remaining fish has run it's course without any long term effects. The male Lyretail still appears to be afflicted with something that I suspect is a new generation of gill flukes, although I never saw any signs of the first ones in the water column during the round of Prazi. Regardless, I'm debating the headache of running Prazi during Hypo. I already have to keep using MB7 and dosing Alk for pH, so at worst I'll need to run an air stone. As for the female Solar, the mark on her eye is definitely not a fluke as it's too pronounced and is white. At first I thought it may be damage from netting at the LFS, but it's been there too long. I'm hoping I can identify it by going through a video frame by frame. I'm debating a FW dip for her but will wait until I can see better what the spot is. |
#7
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![]() Sorry for your loss, Gregg. And hope you get over you flu OK.
Not sure how long you did the prazi treatment before starting the hypo. But the way I did it was run the prazi first for a couple days, then start lowering the sg. That way there is not too much time for the ich to really hit hard. The 1st round usually isn't too bad anyway. It is the 2nd round (about a week later) that is most deadly. By that time your sg should be down to 1.009 and the prazi out of the water with all the changes to bring down the sg. So then the fish should have more vigor, and be hungry and eating well. Any subsequent rounds of ich after 7 days should be pretty weak. Also have never had to use MB7, or control alk or any other parameters during QT. My QT is very well established, and remained stable. To be honest, not sure why you care about alk or ph in a QT. Ammonia is the only thing to really watch for, and should not be a problem if you have a well established nitrogen cycle. Anyway, that was my experience. It's been a while since I had to QT fish, but when I did it that way, always worked for me. Your male probably has ich in the gills. That is pretty common, and is the really fast killer. Just having ich on the body is not so bad. If it was flukes, they wouldn't kill as fast, and your prazi should have taken care of them.
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