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  #1  
Old 11-28-2014, 07:33 AM
mikellini mikellini is offline
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Probably because of the low calcium, less likely to precipitate.
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  #2  
Old 11-28-2014, 04:44 PM
--lmao-- --lmao-- is offline
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whats your guys take on instant ocean reef crystals compared to the regular instant ocean. is it alot better? i use regular IO and i manually dose. would reef crystals reduce my doseing?
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  #3  
Old 11-28-2014, 04:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikellini
Probably because of the low calcium, less likely to precipitate.
I would concur but adding the water to the salt is going to cause residues to form, especially if the parameters are near the upper ends of their ranges and you use cold water to mix.


What I find interesting is that two different people posted test results from testing their buckets of IO. I assume Rich and Greg most likely bought at JL or KE?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bblinks
CA 380 Alk 11-12 and Mag 1200
How long ago did you get these #'s Rich and did you roll ?

Quote:
Originally Posted by gregzz4
FWIW, my current bucket of IO is giving me 12.10, 470 and 1305, but only after a lot of rolling
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  #4  
Old 11-28-2014, 05:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by --lmao--
whats your guys take on instant ocean reef crystals compared to the regular instant ocean. is it alot better? i use regular IO and i manually dose. would reef crystals reduce my doseing?
If I remember correctly RC just has elevated levels of Ca and Alk. If you switch to RC your going to have to figure out a new dosing regime and your Alk and Ca will fluctuate. To my way of thinking it is better to keep doing what your doing as stability is best for reef aquariums.

Something else to consider is what Gregzz4 got from his last test.

Quote:
Originally Posted by gregzz4
FWIW, my current bucket of IO is giving me 12.10, 470 and 1305, but only after a lot of rolling
I don't think switching is needed because his #'s are what I think I remember RC used to be.

Ideally you should be testing your parameters and then using an online calculator to figure out how much to add to get the proper levels.
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  #5  
Old 11-28-2014, 05:03 PM
--lmao-- --lmao-- is offline
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Okay thank you for the quick reply
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  #6  
Old 11-29-2014, 03:24 AM
AquaAddict AquaAddict is offline
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Default H20 salt

I have been using H20 salt for a few years and my 20 gal garbage can also has a coating but it's not very thick. I never thought it was a problem. I use to rinse briefly with fresh water but I don't even bother doing that any more.

If this is some kind of organic sludge, what stays in the water mix and ends up in the aquarium?

I always have an algae problem and have to use Io nitrate reducer and also dose with Brightwell Reef Bio Fuel to keep it under control. Yes bio lode is low: 5 small fish, 1 medium in 100 gallons, 20 gal sump because nothing bigger will fit under a corner tank.

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  #7  
Old 11-29-2014, 04:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Madreefer View Post
Here in PG a pail of IO is $69 and at one time I paid $119. I have pics to prove
Holy crap, $10 bucks is nothin then eh?!

Just had a read through THIS. Mixing salt can get quite technical apparently
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  #8  
Old 11-29-2014, 08:30 PM
SeaHorse_Fanatic SeaHorse_Fanatic is offline
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I usually mix overnight but in a pinch, I'll mix for 2-3 hours till its all clear and the right temp.
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  #9  
Old 11-29-2014, 03:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TimT View Post
I assume Rich and Greg most likely bought at JL or KE ?
Yup Tim, I've been buying mine @ KE's
You missed it 'cause I edited ...

I'm all for supporting my LFS and do so regularly, so I have no problems buying it cheaper elsewhere
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