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#1
11-27-2014, 02:41 AM
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"The analog dimming control input controls the current of all LEDs while the PWM control inputs control the dimming duty of output channels individually." with this one you could use the PWM to balance your colors and then use the analog to do your sunrise sunset Steve
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 *everything said above is just my opinion, and may or may not reflect the views of this BBS, its Operators, and its Members. If cornered on any “opinion” I post I will totally deny having ever said this in a Court of Law…Unless I am the right one*Some strive to be perfect.... I just strive. 
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#2
11-27-2014, 03:03 AM
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If you have a Reef Angel or similar controller you can use PWM, but if your just starting out and have nothing you cans use some simple pots to control the channels. For those that want something more different, the Arduino route can be used with I2S and a program can be written for control. Also I noticed something weird this morning... There's only 4 hard wired dim controls. Seems like Channels 1 and 2 share the same dimmer as well as 3 and 4 share another. channels 5 and 6 are individually controlled. I sent TI an email to clarify this for me as if this is only a PWM or Analog control only or does it apply to serial control as well. Keeping fingers crossed either way as sometimes its just a matter of not having enough pins on the device.
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#3
03-24-2015, 06:09 AM
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Well...
Its time for an update!!! Had a hella time with remembering on how to use Altium LOL Schematic for the LME3463 and drivers are almost laid out. Have to call the TI tech line to have a quick chat with an engineer to settle my mind as I been at this for about 6 hrs now with no break and I'm about burnt out! Aiming for 3-5A MAX per channel... so ramping, current limiting and start-up current control are critical to keep heat dissipation to a minimum as well as keeping a constant voltage and constant current to the LED's. I'm about 80% done now and if everything checks out with the TI boys i will start laying out the prototype boards VERY SOON !! The boards will be set up in a "UNIVERSAL" mode with jumpers to select between Analog, PWM or Serial control and I'm hopeing to keep them around 2" x 4" and 3" x 5" Most of the PCB will be SMD ( surface mount) beside the FET's which will be T0220 devices. This way a smaller PCB can be used, but FET's will require a heatsink depending on the draw and dissipation.
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#4
04-12-2015, 06:46 AM
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Well...
About 6 hrs of fiddling around ( from devices created in the library, schematic being drawn up to PCB board laid out ) this would be the final result  Top Layer:  Bottom Layer:  Size is 58mm x 36mm ( 2.25" x 1.4" ) SW1 - Mode Select ( External / Disable ) D2 - Fault Indicator - signal is also available externally This board is capable of 6CH TOTAL ( CH0/CH1 and 2CH/CH3 share dimming controls ) Other than that these board will go on a Larger Main board that will hold the power rails and MOSFET's as well as it can house 4 of these modules in Master / Slave configuration. This configuration will give 8CH of control with 12CH of Output. Slave units will be receive data from master via serial and offer an additional 12CH of output. Please bare in mind that each channel is capable of 5A of current as well as operating up to 96VDC. Boards have been sent out and hoping to see the first batch in soon as well as more testing !!!
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#5
04-12-2015, 04:46 PM
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All I can say is good on ya! That may as well be a martian language! Good luck with the soldering.
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#6
04-12-2015, 04:56 PM
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Everything else will be done via a stencil and a re-flow oven  Then again, some items can be omitted and/or left off in case you want to externally adjust things through the external components which will be mainly be through hole components
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#7
04-12-2015, 06:45 PM
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Oh well of course! I completely forgot about stenciling and the re-flow oven....
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