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#1
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![]() Quote:
Yup repeated cycling will wear out the mechanisms resulting in tripping early... frustrating, but safe. The safety issues come from age related issues with the metal components like good old corrosion. Additionally the changing flow of power over the years heats and cools the metals and they can start to fuse together over time. And if your lucky enough to have a Federal Pacific/Pioneer stab lock panel breakers probably didn't trip when they were supposed to from day one so now in extreme cases the internals could be full on welded together ![]() Side note... If you have a Federal Pacific, Federal Pioneer, Sylvania, or CEB panel, call an electrician and get it out of your house they all have known issues with their breakers not tripping when they are supposed to. okay I'm going to try to stop preaching electrical safety now haha.
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Electromagician by day, Reefer by night. |
#2
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![]() Not certain about code requirements with regard to GFCI & fish tanks, but if it is code to have one near sinks, bathtubs etc., doesn't it make sense to use a GFCI for equipment powering a fish tank full of water? Especially if you're going to be reaching body parts into it from time to time? Code, schmode & if my critters die due to a GFCI tripping, I'd sooner deal with that, than risking my own or my family's skin.
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Mike 77g sumpless SW DIY 10 watt multi-chip LED build ![]() |
#3
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![]() holy frak! Glad you didn't burn your house down Tai! Had to go check my cheap powerbars, then remembered that I have my all my lights plugged into one GHL profilux powerbar which was anything but cheap..
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#4
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![]() How about AMERICAN DJ PC-100A 19" Rack Light Power Distribution Center?
Any thoughts? ![]() http://www.ebay.com.sg/itm/AMERICAN-...item51b1c7a5b2 |
#5
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![]() Quote:
For GFCI protection on a tank, I don't understand why someone wouldn't. It only takes 10 milliamps to kill you. Typically, our dry skin has enough resistance that 120V will not conduct 10 milliamps. Higher voltages, 240 to 600 can and will hold you so you can't let go. The Saltwater in our tanks, being so conductive, will lessen the resistance of our skin and make the 120v in our homes so much more dangerous. Cheaply made power bars (most are cheap) do not have to follow the same electrical codes as an electrician. They have to follow a manufactures code for CSA/ULC and get away with smaller wires due to less distance run. That being said, when they burn up it's due resistance in the connection. Dirty/corroded plugs create resistance and heat, it would only take 2ohms resistance to create a little 50w heater in that plug. As the heats builds so does the resistance and the problem gets worse. Also, now there is a voltage loss at the receptacle. No normal breaker or GFI will catch this in time. I went and checked all my plugs when I read this thread. If you don't like power bars, I just made my own with one GFCI receptacle protecting a few commercial grade receptacles. Higher grade receptacles have larger contacts inside and hold tighter. |