My power bar melt

[DSlater]

Every receptacle is designed and CSA certified to handle the load that the NEMA configuration allows for. Meaning each receptacle in a common power bar can handle the full load of the power bar(even though many are protected by internal overcurrent devices).
Problem for reefers is that the salt environment causes corrosion on our plugs making resistance in the connections. This resistance(with current running through it) creates heat, more heat = more resistance = more heat continuing till something melts. Breakers usually don't trip because current draw is not high enough. Most 15A breakers will hold 20A for a while, old FPE stablock breakers will hold a dead short for waaayyy to long.
Cheap plastic power bars usually melt and let go of their connection before fire. I would be afraid that a metal power bar(being stronger) would just hold on longer and create more heat. Better solution is to clean your connections and use an anti-oxidising compound if it's really bad.

[The Guy]

By code a 15 amp circuit is allowed a total of 1200 watts. So traditionally each 15 amp circuit has 12 outlets of lights & plugs rated for 100 watts at each outlet. Most of us that have aquariums use a power bar to operate the various things such as heaters, skimmers, lighting etc. When you plug a power bar into a wall outlet, remember to choose a wall plug in that's not on a circuit that's heavily loaded. So do the math and figure out your total wattage for your aquarium and what's on the other plugs in that circuit to try and keep it at 1200 watts maximum. For the sake of safety try and use at least 2 different circuits especially if your have high wattages such as MH lights & heaters. I also agree that your power bar should be mounted in the driest area possible to avoid salt creep causing you grief.

[DSlater]

Originally Posted by The Guy

By code a 15 amp circuit is allowed a total of 1200 watts. So traditionally each 15 amp circuit has 12 outlets of lights & plugs rated for 100 watts at each outlet. Most of us that have aquariums use a power bar to operate the various things such as heaters, skimmers, lighting etc. When you plug a power bar into a wall outlet, remember to choose a wall plug in that's not on a circuit that's heavily loaded. So do the math and figure out your total wattage for your aquarium and what's on the other plugs in that circuit to try and keep it at 1200 watts maximum. For the sake of safety try and use at least 2 different circuits especially if your have high wattages such as MH lights & heaters. I also agree that your power bar should be mounted in the driest area possible to avoid salt creep causing you grief.

You're correct that a 15A circuit is not allowed to be loaded up to 15A. Almost all breakers out there are only rated for 80% capacity, 100% rated breakers are rare(usually in large commercial and industrial where there is no space for a larger breaker frame size)
I forget if the 12 plugs per circuit is a code rule or just a rule of thumb, either way, 10 to 12 devices on a circuit is the norm. Each plug is still rated for the full load of the circuit though, not 100 watts. Just if you plug enough stuff in it will trip the breaker...

[salty210]

My power bar was not powering M/H, only had 4 - 96 watt compact florescent, 6 led moonlights, and 2 koralia power heads. Maybe 600 watts or 5 amps. It was only 2 months old and was kept in the dry area of cabinet. Not enough current draw for the coralife power bar to melt and cause a fire like it did. I would never recommend this power bar to anybody.