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#1
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Although I do agree it wouldn't be one bucket, and we'd hear a lot more about it. Maybe we will in the next while ![]()
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Brad |
#2
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![]() I have been using io reef crystals for years but I'm having issues as well. I buy my salt the only place in town which is petsmart. The last 2 160g pails and 50g bag that I have bought there have all read .25-.5 ammonia. Checked test kit on the fresh rodi water with 0 reading. Also checked test kit on tank which reads 0. I will no longer use io reef crystals. I have also had several fellow reefers in town check theirs and they all have the same readings.
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#3
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![]() from RHF: There are a variety of sources of ammonia in reef aquaria. Minor sources include: 1) tap water (especially if it contains chloramine and is not treated with a deionizing resin) and 2) impurities in salt mixes and other additives. It has previously been shown that the total NH4-N ranged from 0.55 to 11.9 micromole/kg (0.008 to 0.17 ppm total NH4-N) in an analysis of eight brands of artificial seawater mixes. At the higher end of the scale, those levels will be detected with an ammonia test kit and can present potential toxicity concerns if fish are kept at those levels (see below). These levels of ammonia may be introduced from impurities in calcium chloride and magnesium chloride, where ammonia is a well known impurity resulting from some of the commercial manufacturing processes used (such as the Solvay process, which involves ammonia). Calcium and magnesium additives can also be a significant source of ammonia, especially for aquarists who are trying to use inexpensive sources of bulk calcium or magnesium chloride. I discussed testing calcium chloride for ammonia in a previous article. |
#4
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![]() Just a thought here - do most people weight their salt when adding it into RODI? I do as I found the whole measured cup thing wildly inaccurate when I test the salinity of the newly prepared water (which I think is just good practice to do no matter what). You did say you tested the salinity so that should be fine - unless the testing was way off (no offense)?
A couple of more thoughts - how much water did you actually change - 20% or 80% - larger change can really impact things if the water is not close in parameters? For the experts out there - is mixing for 2 days an issue at all? Perhaps not as it constantly gets mixed in the tank anyway but something in me remembers reading something about only letting salt mix until dissolved (not necessarily clear) and not for extended periods of time. Could the 2 day mixing time have any downside? That said, I am still only 1.5 years into this whole crazy hobby so my questions/thoughts may be off base, but I wanted to throw that out there... |
#5
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![]() I usually mix my new salt water for a day or 2 sometimes more. Never seemed to be a problem.
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#6
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Don't know if your problems were directly related to the salt, but I wouldn't take a chance with it, if indeed that was the only actual change to your tank routine. Best of luck with your recovery.
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Reef Pilot's Undersea Oasis: http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/sho...d.php?t=102101 Frags FS: http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/sho...d.php?t=115022 Solutions are easy. The real difficulty lies in discovering the problem. |
#7
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![]() Ummm, Reef Crystals has crashed tanks in the past. Go call the Vancouver Aquarium and ask them about 2012. Or y'all remember former TOTM member Fooser? Ever wonder why he's not really around anymore? Yup, Reef Crystals. I've had several clients that had tank wipe outs from RC's. Again, this was in 2012, but the precedence is there. Just because it didn't happen to you doesn't make it imputes to call BS on another person's experience.
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This and that. |
#8
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http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=89006 Last edited by Samw; 10-24-2014 at 12:25 AM. |
#9
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This and that. |
#10
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