![]() |
|
![]() |
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
#1
|
||||
|
||||
![]() Quote:
|
#2
|
||||
|
||||
![]() I am new to this forum but have been a reefer for about 10years.
I also battled HA... long clumps on just about everything but the fish! I am very meticulous with my tank and take great pride in it. I got to the point that I ALMOST gave up... but in the end... I WON THE BATTLE!!!! The process will be slow... took me 5 months to finally say that I am algae free... or at least 99%. Your phosphates are low, but checking when you have HA will give you false hope because your HA is absorbing (and thriving) by consuming your phosphate. I will give you what worked for me: Regular water changes BUT NOT TOO FREQUENT. I was at the point of doing water changes every 2-3 days... but all those good 'extras' in the salt mix will actually feed the algae too. Weekly should be good. Suck up as much HA with your tubing when going water changes. In between water changes regularly pull out HA. I had a bowl of cold tap water that I would put it into, dipping my fingers in it too before going back into the tank to pull out more. Once HA starts to die off, it will release more phosphates if you keep in in the tank... and that just keeps the cycle going. I used a toothbrush on tough-to-reach areas that were dying off... or areas where the HA was short and almost gone. Make sure to keep your sump (and other areas you may have separate from your display) clean and not building up debris. A long-spine urchin. Regularly blasting the rocks Strawberry hats... found them to be better than Mexican turbos A phosban reactor with ROWAPHAS A really good skimmer... and empty it often Feed sparingly. I did not add any selcon/garlic etc to frozen food. I rinsed any frozen food in RO water I did not feed any LPS or SPS (and they continued to thrive and grow). Enough from the water, frequent changes, fish waste etc. No additives to water... ie amino acids I do vodka dose Coral Snow added twice a week when lights out Below is my tank today. 20140913_132739 (2) (800x450).jpg Have patience and you will conquer ![]() |
#3
|
||||
|
||||
![]() Oops... and I keep a clump of chaeto in my sump
|
#4
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() Never been able to keep it alive
Would probably thrive right now ![]() |
#5
|
||||
|
||||
![]() Coral snow is not a coral food... it's a biological facilitator. Helps with all the undesirable algaes.
I found it to help in killing of the HA... would go from dark green to a light color and much easier to pull off the rock. |
#6
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() Hmm, thanks
|
#7
|
||||
|
||||
![]() I had the cyano too. Used CyanoClean from KZ. Expensive but it works!
I also increased my flow... added 3 tunze powerheads on a multi-controller. |
#8
|
||||
|
||||
![]() If you are feeding coral frenzy I would hold off. Might be fueling your problem
|
#9
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() While the debate continues ...
![]() Thanks for your input seabreeze I've been doing everything you listed with a couple small differences; I use HCGFO WCs I'm doing weekly and may change to bi-monthly I wasn't regularly basting the LR My Strawberries and Turbos died - I suspect due to Cyano No coral snow (coral frenzy in my case) No vodka or vinegar dosing (yet) All my frozen is rinsed well with RO in large batches, with garlic and aminos added before being frozen in small cubes |
#10
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() Quote:
Some people start bio pellet, vodka, vinegar or other carbon dosing too much and too quickly. This fuels the cyano and can lead to a major outbreak. Applying MB7, even heavy dosing, will not stop the cyano at this point. The correct procedure is to start MB7 (heavy dosage) at least 2 weeks prior to carbon dosing and ramp the carbon dosing up very slowly. Similarly, applying MB7 to kill a cyano outbreak does not work. As I said, it is not a cure. It is a preventative. You need Chemiclean to completely get rid of cyano before using MB7. Another mistake I saw was someone misreading the instructions thinking the weekly dosage was to be applied daily. Not understanding and following instructions seems to be a common theme. Unfortunately, people often never even realize it,... since they don't know what they don't know. Doing it correctly is simply following instructions on dosage and frequency. And after having cut down to the low dosage, recognize when cyano may reappear, and then going back to the high dosage for a short time until it clears up. I had that happen a couple times early on, but was able to quickly beat it back. Once the MB7 bacteria is fully established in your tank, cyano won't come back, at least I have not seen it for a couple years now. And I only use half or less of the low dosage amount. Of course MB7 is no substitute for bad tank husbandry, including not turkey basting your live rock and sand to prevent the collection of detritus. But I also know that even with good husbandry, incl low P04 and N03, you can still get cyano if you don't use MB7. I know some of the vendors here advocate other high end bacteria supplements and solutions. They may work as well. But MB7 is pretty simple and cheap to use, and very effective, if used correctly.
__________________
Reef Pilot's Undersea Oasis: http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/sho...d.php?t=102101 Frags FS: http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/sho...d.php?t=115022 Solutions are easy. The real difficulty lies in discovering the problem. Last edited by Reef Pilot; 09-20-2014 at 10:15 PM. |