cutting 6" Pipe - Page 2

Richer · #11 09-23-2004, 05:22 AM

muck - where are you gonna get your acrylic from? The lady at GEpolymershapes said they didn't have any of the tubing that I wanted, or any of the acrylic sheets for that matter =\ . Maybe we can get together and buy a couple of large sheets rather than a few small ones and save a bit of money? Who knew acrylic cost so much? We should use that instead of currency

-Richer

kuatto · #12 09-23-2004, 05:28 AM

Steve
Is there anything holding the part of the jig that the blade goes through to the table?

Richer · #13 09-23-2004, 05:30 AM

Looks like rails were put on the bottom of the jig to slide through the notches on the tablesaw... probably would be wise to clamp it down while you're using it.

-Richer

muck · #14 09-23-2004, 05:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Richer

muck - where are you gonna get your acrylic from? The lady at GEpolymershapes said they didn't have any of the tubing that I wanted, or any of the acrylic sheets for that matter =\ . Maybe we can get together and buy a couple of large sheets rather than a few small ones and save a bit of money? Who knew acrylic cost so much? We should use that instead of currency

-Richer

I actually came across a 6" Clear PVC Tube in the shop at work the other day. So I will be using that cause its FREE. I will probably need some flat pvc though or acrylic would work if someone can confirm that its possible to glue the two together...

Richer · #15 09-23-2004, 05:38 AM

Do you happen to have enough to spare me 2 feet worth?

(yes, I'm a mooch).

I'm pretty sure you can bond acrylic with pvc. I keep on reading that weldon 16 should do it as long as it has enough time to cure (whatever that means).

-Richer

StirCrazy · #16 09-23-2004, 12:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kuatto

Steve
Is there anything holding the part of the jig that the blade goes through to the table?

yes like Richer said there are the two runners on the bottom that go in the guide slots only I made them very tight so it doesn't go anywhere while cutting and no need for clamping the sled.

Steve

Jack · #17 09-23-2004, 09:03 PM

I find when you buy lengths of tubing the ends aren't always at a level cut which screws up your mirrored cut on the other end. So, sometimes it takes some prep to straighten that out but that's the hardest part. Heavy grit sandpaper works best to do that, IME.

Aquattro · #18 09-23-2004, 10:35 PM

Jack, all you need to do is cut the first piece an inch longer than you need, then turn it around in a jig like Steve's and trim the rough edge off. Perfect cut on both ends. You'll never need to sand tube again!!

Delphinus · #19 09-23-2004, 10:50 PM

That's really cool.

So what's different about an acrylic blade? Up until now I thought it was just more teeth that you wanted. Is the shape of the teeth different?

Would a place like Industrial Paints & Plastics have a blade like that or do you need to special order it from somewhere?

Aquattro · #20 09-23-2004, 11:10 PM

Tony, th tooth design is different. IPP might have them, but you'd need a bank loan. Specialty saw shops are likely the best place. These can run upwards of $200 per blade.