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#1
06-16-2014, 10:59 PM
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APEGBC is the body who regulates the engineering profession.
https://www.apeg.bc.ca/For-Members/P...-Asked-Questio 
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#3
06-30-2014, 02:37 AM
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Thanks SRG...ive contacted a few, and most have replied that they don't do this kind of work. Anyone on the board actually have an engineer assess their floor? One who did respond said nom our floor could not support the weight (without any details, I guess just judging that the standard floor cannot support 300 gallons... but he wanted quite a but of money to do an actual assessment.
Would appreciate a recommendation if anyone has a name
__________________
__________________ 125 gallon 6', 33 gallon sump \ refugium
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#4
06-30-2014, 06:19 AM
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Personally I think you are wasting money getting an engineer to look at your situation.
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#5
06-30-2014, 06:23 AM
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You say new house, does that mean just built, or new to you? New homes are much more over engineered than older ones.
If it's new, do you have access to the framing drawings from the builder? That would be a huge help. Are you planning your tank in the middle of the room, on an interior wall, or an exterior wall? Different locations manage different weight loads accordingly. Is the area below the tank unfinished? This would then be an easy structural modification. A 300 gal tank including a safety factor will weigh approximately 4000 lbs. No typical floor is designed for this load.
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#6
06-30-2014, 08:14 AM
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300 gal
actually you would be spreading the weight over 18 square feet.again it also how the stand is constructed.i built my stand the same way a house is built,with everything at 16 " centers,including 2x4 joists that are in contact to the floor(with felt to protect the floor).i have had no problem with my 240,which is an peninsula tank
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#7
06-30-2014, 10:00 AM
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Not all floors are built 16" on centre anymore. Some are 12", some use 2 x 10's, or engineered joists (look like I beams).
There are seismic codes in BC now too, lots of houses utilize huge laminated beams (that can't be drilled for piping, plumbing or electrical). Steel I beams are also the norm in 3 storey detached structures which are bearing the load 30 feet up to the peak of the roof. I see it all the time, as I need to run my pipe all over the house. Single family dwellings are built different from townhouses, which are different from rowhomes, which are different from apartments, etc, etc. If you have in-floor heating there is 1 & 1/2 inches of concrete above the sub-floor. Some builders don't want drops or bulkheads in the basement, so trades need to drill holes (sometimes up to 8 inches) in joists to run ductwork or pipe. What if eternitybc is planning a tank in a spot that is drilled with 8" ductwork? Fail. An Engineer needs to see final inspection drawings to assess if a floor can handle the load. Having one come to the house is as useless as a home inspector, they can't see through walls and floors. Any Engineer is going to tell you your floor can't handle it, because they don't want to be liable. I can guarantee an Engineer will tell you to open the ceiling below the tank and beef up the structure by sistering every joist. Glue with PL Premium and nail (screws fail seismic shear). They love to over engineer, so probably also add 2 posts (steel) with a two 2 x 10 laminated lintel minimum. Of course the 4 - 6" concrete slab you have in the basement needs to be thicker too, to support the steel posts. Then they will spend 3 - 6 weeks making some fancy drawings that you can submit for a building permit. I just saved you $5000. 
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