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Old 05-28-2014, 10:02 PM
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asylumdown asylumdown is offline
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Originally Posted by daplatapus View Post
The tank transfer method of QT for Ich is a systematic routine that catches the Cryptocaryon mid life cycle when it's no longer on your fish.
+1 to this method. This is what I've done since I lost all my fish in November, 2012 and I dare say my tank is ich free. People are freaked out by this method because it involves handling the fish which seems stressful, but the scoop and transfer is over in 20 seconds. Comparatively, copper or hypo both expose fish to either a serious metabolic poison or chemistry far outside their optimal range for extended periods of time. Fish have evolved all sorts of physiological mechanisms to cope with the fight or flight response without it causing any long term harm, but hypo and copper both put tremendous sustained pressure on their kidneys and other organs. I've never had a fish not go back to behaving as if it never happened within an hour of the transfer. It's also guaranteed to work if you do it right, and takes 12 days as opposed to several weeks.

Downside is the labour involved. It's the most time consuming of the treatment protocols on your part, which really puts a curb on impulse purchases (a good thing for me...).

Only thing I do differently than daplatapus is that I don't bleach anything because I wrecked too many shirts cleaning my QT tanks. I have two complete sets of everything (two heaters, two power heads, two tanks, two sets of PVC pipes for decoration, two thermometers). After I thoroughly clean everything in just plain tap water I dry them with a hand towel and let them sit out like you would dishes. C. irritans tomonts (the encysted stage that's the most persistent and hardest to kill) can't survive drying out for more than 24 hours, so the three days in between a set of equipment being used should be more than enough to kill them.
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Old 05-28-2014, 11:30 PM
BackPackHunter BackPackHunter is offline
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With my transfer tanks , I had them drilled in the front , so draining is very easy
And just wet vac the rest out ....
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Old 05-28-2014, 11:37 PM
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With my transfer tanks , I had them drilled in the front , so draining is very easy
And just wet vac the rest out ....
Genius idea. In my dream build, my fish room would have built in tank transfer tanks with sloped bottoms and valved holes at the bottom for draining. I'd also have one of those hand held restaurant style kitchen sprayers installed so I could just leave the valve at the bottom open and hose out the tank.
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Old 05-29-2014, 04:51 AM
Antrias Antrias is offline
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Yeah I really like the idea of these transfer tanks! You guys have given such great information! I think I'm going to do this.

My flame has been eating lots and I've been feeding smaller amounts a few times a day when I can. My.flame now eats all three types of food I feed now which I feel like is a good sign. I see no visable spots but I know that doesn't mean I'm clear yet.
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Old 05-29-2014, 05:37 PM
BackPackHunter BackPackHunter is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asylumdown View Post
Genius idea. In my dream build, my fish room would have built in tank transfer tanks with sloped bottoms and valved holes at the bottom for draining. I'd also have one of those hand held restaurant style kitchen sprayers installed so I could just leave the valve at the bottom open and hose out the tank.
I'm in the middle of plain and picking up gear for my last aquarium build, so a lot of tought has been going into it, I considered a slope n bottom bulk head, but didn't want a whorl pool affect, and wanted to be in front of the tank turning valves, and the space I have for it , made me go with this design.
I'm going to have a garden hose for the sprayer to reach any part of the room.

I'm also QT'ing after the transfer to watch for other problems, and to interdouse fish that I want to add into the DT at the same time .....
I don't want to be doing more then 2 fish together in the transfer at one time

For my transfer tanks I went with 25g cubes (18x18x18)
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