Reef Tank - I can't win

[sumpfinfishe]

A stressed fish is more susceptible to ich, and making a stressed fish more stressed is a recipe for disaster

+1 solid advice!

[Antrias]

Thank guys for the advice I'll try not to freak out. I've just had bad experiences with ich however could be from my over acting to correct the breakouts. Should I not do another water change for a little while? Should I feed twice a day for a while?

As for the clam - A tang knocked it over one day but I didn't think much of it - that probably is what did it - tore it's foot.

[BackPackHunter]

http://www.reefsanctuary.com/forums/...ths-facts.html

^^^
This is a good read

For my next setup, I have 2 transfer tanks & QT tank
Before they will be going into the DT

[Craigdillman]

Originally Posted by BackPackHunter

http://www.reefsanctuary.com/forums/...ths-facts.html

^^^
This is a good read

For my next setup, I have 2 transfer tanks & QT tank
Before they will be going into the DT

I got a tank transfer set up all my fish go through it and prazipro i delt with ich once and never again its like 13 days and sooooo worth it cost maybe 100$ to set up and saves way more in fish

[Antrias]

What exactly is a transfer tank anyway?

[daplatapus]

The tank transfer method of QT for Ich is a systematic routine that catches the Cryptocaryon mid life cycle when it's no longer on your fish. While the parasite basically lives on your fish, it does not breed there. It drops off your fish roughly 3-4 days after hosting it to drop into the substrate and reproduce. One the original parasite multiplies, the many, many, many, offspring release into the water column to attach themselves to all your fish and start the cycle all over again. Multiplying many fold in the process.
So understanding the life cycle of the crytocaryon goes a long way to see how this method is probably the most gentle method on fish (IMHO)
So borrowing the info from RC, here's how to do it:
Firstly, you basically need 2 sets of everything for 2 tanks. They don't have to be all that big. I use a couple of 20 gal, Aquaclear 150's for some water movement (no filter), 2 heaters, 2 - 3" PVC elbows or T's, optional is 2 net's and maybe 2 MJ400's depending on the fish.

Day 1: set up 1 tank matching salinity, temp, ph etc to the water your fish are in currently
Monitor that tank carefully. Having a ammonia badge in the tank is very useful. Your fish will only be there for a couple days, not usually long enough for ammonia to develop to dangerous levels, but you need to watch just in case.

I usually set up my second tank on the eve of day 3 so it's set up for the next morning.

Day 4: in the AM, preferably before the lights come on over the tank, drain the first tank and discard all the water. I usually drain the tank down until only a few inches of water remains, scoop the fish up in my hands or a small bowl with holes that allows the majority of water to drain away, minimizing the chances of water borne parasites making it into the second tank. Put your fish in the second tank.
Finish draining the first tank. Clean EVERYTHING. I use a 10% bleach solution and let everything soak in it for an hour or 2. then rinse VERY well and let air dry.

Day 7: repeat the process

Day 10: repeat

Day 14: repeat and you're done. Continue to watch your fish for anything else it may have for a week or 2 depending on your QT philosophy and enjoy your healthy tank.

[Craigdillman]

As above here is another link describing it

http://atj.net.au/marineaquaria/3daytransfer.html

[daplatapus]

I forgot to mention as well that this is why you'll see the recommendation of allowing an existing set up to go fallow for 6-8 weeks without any fish to makes sure all the cryptocryon cysts are dead from starvation before re-introduction of any fish back into the system.
As long as you have any fish that they can host on in the tank, you'll never get rid of it.

[asylumdown]

Originally Posted by daplatapus

The tank transfer method of QT for Ich is a systematic routine that catches the Cryptocaryon mid life cycle when it's no longer on your fish.

+1 to this method. This is what I've done since I lost all my fish in November, 2012 and I dare say my tank is ich free. People are freaked out by this method because it involves handling the fish which seems stressful, but the scoop and transfer is over in 20 seconds. Comparatively, copper or hypo both expose fish to either a serious metabolic poison or chemistry far outside their optimal range for extended periods of time. Fish have evolved all sorts of physiological mechanisms to cope with the fight or flight response without it causing any long term harm, but hypo and copper both put tremendous sustained pressure on their kidneys and other organs. I've never had a fish not go back to behaving as if it never happened within an hour of the transfer. It's also guaranteed to work if you do it right, and takes 12 days as opposed to several weeks.

Downside is the labour involved. It's the most time consuming of the treatment protocols on your part, which really puts a curb on impulse purchases (a good thing for me...).

Only thing I do differently than daplatapus is that I don't bleach anything because I wrecked too many shirts cleaning my QT tanks. I have two complete sets of everything (two heaters, two power heads, two tanks, two sets of PVC pipes for decoration, two thermometers). After I thoroughly clean everything in just plain tap water I dry them with a hand towel and let them sit out like you would dishes. C. irritans tomonts (the encysted stage that's the most persistent and hardest to kill) can't survive drying out for more than 24 hours, so the three days in between a set of equipment being used should be more than enough to kill them.

[sumpfinfishe]

Your fish still need a healthy environment so I wouldn't stop the water changes. Water changes provide clean healthy water for the fish not to mention they help keep most of your parameters more stable.
As far as feeding goes, fish in the wild graze and hunt for food all day. You should be feeding your fish at least twice a day, but only enough that they consume 90% of it within a few minutes(2 minutes not 10 minutes). I feed my fish three times a day, a few shrimp pellets and a few algae wafers in the am while the lights are out, then two meals after work of frozen and flake. Soon I will even be getting an auto feeder so they will get a few more mid day snacks.

Just try to keep your hands out of the water for awhile or spooking the fish too much by other actions.