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Old 05-06-2014, 02:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RuGlu6 View Post
Yes, what you say makes a lot of sense, and i respect your opinion i do.
Agree wit a lot of what you saying:
2 buck system yes,
Inefficient not so much , it is efficient and it works. (how would you know if you don't try? when i built it i didn't know until i did. Now that i know it works i can share it with people "open source idea" sort of thing)

Automated; yes chiller is more automated however, because it is more complex it is less reliable. My system is less automated, But its automated enough to keep steady temperature. I have flow valve for flow control and "automated" heater in the sump which will turn on when water gets too cold. So it is efficient cooling and semi-automated. I get flow valve closed just enough to not get it too cold to prevent the heater to turn on too frequently.
My system with no moving parts is so simple and therefore way more reliable then a chiller. Plus its absolutely silent compare to a chiller that can be pretty noisy and chiller will expel heat in to your room that is already hot.

I am actually very proud of this idea its simplicity, reliability, cost effectiveness and its being environmentally friendly.

Outside temp does not go from +30C to +18C overnight in that regard this system is pretty good and stable once you set it, its good for a week or so.
If you out of the house for a month its a different story.

I also respect your choice in having a chiller there is absolutely nothing wrong. Some people build huge tanks in to their houses and spend close to 100k on it, there is nothing wrong with that, but is it a good model for everyone?
My choice is not to have a chiller and there is nothing wrong with that ether.

I wold like to thank some people on here who do like this DIY idea for support and also thank you for a PM.

So if you decide to try this, use about 25 feet of tubing (to make a coil) for every 50Gal of water volume to make a coil in the sump. If you look at the picture of the 25 foot coil it takes very little room in the sump.

For emergency cooling you don't even have to have a sump , you can submerge the heat exchanger coil tubing in the display tank for a week or so when it gets too hot.
The important thing is to have heat exchange tubing coiled loose, to have it all completely submerged, and to have it in a highest water flow area if possible.

Cheers.
This idea has my interest. My chiller ran a lot last summer, and undoubtedly contributed significantly to my hydro bill. I have an Apex incl temp probes, an IO Breakout box and a couple water solenoids. So I could completely automate a cooling system, just like my chiller.

But I don't have a lot of room in my sump. I assume your tubing was just standard RO type. I wonder if there is another thinner wall type tubing available from somewhere that would take less room and maybe even better heat exchange capabilities?
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Old 05-06-2014, 02:38 PM
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Possibly not so good for those of us on Septic systems either. Would be introducing a lot of extra water on the system. But I have toyed around with the idea quite a bit. Even using a old car rad with 12v fan as a outside heat exchanger. But what fluid to use in the cooling loop, that won't freeze? Car antifreeze would be devastating if a leak occured.
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Old 05-12-2014, 03:40 AM
RuGlu6 RuGlu6 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reef Pilot View Post
This idea has my interest. My chiller ran a lot last summer, and undoubtedly contributed significantly to my hydro bill. I have an Apex incl temp probes, an IO Breakout box and a couple water solenoids. So I could completely automate a cooling system, just like my chiller.

But I don't have a lot of room in my sump. I assume your tubing was just standard RO type. I wonder if there is another thinner wall type tubing available from somewhere that would take less room and maybe even better heat exchange capabilities?
Yes, RO type, sorry, i did not try any other materials.
Obviously stainless or titanium would work a lot better, if you can get it. But when you are in a pinch anything will be better than nothing.

For emergency cooling you don't need a sump you can just place the coil in the display tank or if you have large overflow box yo can place it there (watch for blockage), its ugly but still better then watching you corals cook slowly.

As long as coil is loose, completely submerged and in an area where there is flow, it will work. Get about 25 feet of tubing coil for every 50 gal, of water.(in addition to the tubing to and from the tank) .
Any ball valve will provide flow control because you don't want to sit there turning it on and off. Just get enough drip to keep it at steady temp 24C or so and your heater will turn "on" if you are not there and it gets below 23C .
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Old 05-12-2014, 04:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RuGlu6 View Post
Yes, RO type, sorry, i did not try any other materials.
Obviously stainless or titanium would work a lot better, if you can get it. But when you are in a pinch anything will be better than nothing.

For emergency cooling you don't need a sump you can just place the coil in the display tank or if you have large overflow box yo can place it there (watch for blockage), its ugly but still better then watching you corals cook slowly.

As long as coil is loose, completely submerged and in an area where there is flow, it will work. Get about 25 feet of tubing coil for every 50 gal, of water.(in addition to the tubing to and from the tank) .
Any ball valve will provide flow control because you don't want to sit there turning it on and off. Just get enough drip to keep it at steady temp 24C or so and your heater will turn "on" if you are not there and it gets below 23C .
Well, I've got a 230g system, so would need a lot of coil then. No room in my tanks either with the live rock and corals, esp if the tubing was stiff,... would make quite a mess with my sps.

So, unless I can find some thinner wall tubing that is also less stiff, probably wouldn't work for me. Is there such a thing as thin wall airline tubing? Plus if it all costs too much, would kind of defeat the purpose, too.

I do have a chiller, but was just wondering whether I could lower my cooling costs (electricity) during the summer.
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Old 05-22-2014, 12:32 AM
RuGlu6 RuGlu6 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reef Pilot View Post
Well, I've got a 230g system, so would need a lot of coil then. No room in my tanks either with the live rock and corals, esp if the tubing was stiff,... would make quite a mess with my sps.

So, unless I can find some thinner wall tubing that is also less stiff, probably wouldn't work for me. Is there such a thing as thin wall airline tubing? Plus if it all costs too much, would kind of defeat the purpose, too.

I do have a chiller, but was just wondering whether I could lower my cooling costs (electricity) during the summer.
I looked at the pictures of your system and looks like there is some room in the sump, to the left of your chiller.
Here is another idea, ;
You can use this kit from eBay,
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Version-...item20e5c235f3
to place a 2L soda bottle in your sump and, pump cold water through it and use it as a cooling "coil/heat exchanger".
The walls of a 2L soda bottle are thin and providing your cold water temp is below 15C it will help your chiller a lot.
This is still cost effective $18 with free shipping. Instead of buying 200 feet of tubing.
I did not try this, myself, but looks very promising.
jmtcw.
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