Canreef Aquatics Bulletin Board  

Go Back   Canreef Aquatics Bulletin Board > General > Product Review and Equipment Forum

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 04-11-2014, 05:04 PM
Ron99's Avatar
Ron99 Ron99 is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: South Surrey, BC
Posts: 1,018
Ron99 is on a distinguished road
Default

I'm using mine with a 19V universal laptop power supply. So if you have a laptop power supply handy, or anything that puts out 15V to 24 V you can see if the pump runs. I believe the pumps won't run properly with less than 15V but I may be wrong on that as I haven't tried it.
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 04-11-2014, 05:06 PM
lastlight's Avatar
lastlight lastlight is offline
Gold Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Calgary
Posts: 6,997
lastlight has a spectacular aura aboutlastlight has a spectacular aura aboutlastlight has a spectacular aura about
Default

your laptop supply puts out dc? do they all?

plus i still have the issue of the pump having 3 input wires...
__________________
Brett
My 67 392 225 101 94 34 97 404 28 93 209 gallon reef.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 04-11-2014, 06:28 PM
roblarss roblarss is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: rocky mountain house, ab
Posts: 70
roblarss is on a distinguished road
Default

As far as im aware you still need to use the controller supplied or a similar device. The replacement power supply will only supply voltage to the pump. The 3rd wire will tell the pump how fast to run.

A spare power supply will though tell you if the controller is really at fault or if its an issue of the power supply, which is fairly common.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 04-11-2014, 07:00 PM
Ron99's Avatar
Ron99 Ron99 is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: South Surrey, BC
Posts: 1,018
Ron99 is on a distinguished road
Default

Yup, it puts out 19V DC. You would plug it into the controller to see if the pump works and that would tell you if it's the power supply or the controller as roblarss suggests. Usually any power supply will have a label that tells you the output so if you can find one at home that puts out 15 to 24V DC you could try it to see if the pump runs.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 04-11-2014, 07:24 PM
mike31154's Avatar
mike31154 mike31154 is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Vernon
Posts: 2,073
mike31154 will become famous soon enough
Default

Whatever power supply you do find, also make sure it has sufficient wattage rating to run the pump. It's not just about volts.... so for a 2640 model like yours, you need at least 85 watts, 100 would be better. My ancient Compaq notebook power supply produces 18.5 volt & 120 watts.
__________________
Mike
77g sumpless SW
DIY 10 watt multi-chip LED build http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=82206

Last edited by mike31154; 04-11-2014 at 07:30 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 04-11-2014, 07:41 PM
mike31154's Avatar
mike31154 mike31154 is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Vernon
Posts: 2,073
mike31154 will become famous soon enough
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by roblarss View Post
As far as im aware you still need to use the controller supplied or a similar device. The replacement power supply will only supply voltage to the pump. The 3rd wire will tell the pump how fast to run.

A spare power supply will though tell you if the controller is really at fault or if its an issue of the power supply, which is fairly common.
If you check out the link I provided earlier on wire colour coding, green/yellow is most likely a safety ground. Seems like a pretty universally accepted convention. That would make the red & blue positive & negative DC supply wires & the pump should run with the appropriate voltage applied there, sans controller.

It's unlikely that a pump in this price range is going to have much sophistication housed within the pump itself, like control circuit feedback wiring. It simply reacts to varying voltage provided by the controller. Will run at a constant speed if presented with a constant voltage. I believe it's also a submersible pump, so a safety ground wire (green/yellow) is probably a very good idea.

And yes, any spare power supply will help determine which component is not working as advertised, even if you don't hook it directly to the pump.
__________________
Mike
77g sumpless SW
DIY 10 watt multi-chip LED build http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=82206

Last edited by mike31154; 04-11-2014 at 07:44 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 04-11-2014, 08:27 PM
roblarss roblarss is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: rocky mountain house, ab
Posts: 70
roblarss is on a distinguished road
Default

pump side 3 pin connector with the dimple up is 24vdc right, gnd (-), left, 0-5v signal on bottom.

you should be able to test pump with low voltage between 0 and 5v on the bottom pin. 24v + is on right pin. common ground on the left pin for both.

This pump is same as the wp pump and has same pin standard...at least mine do.
Reply With Quote
Reply


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT. The time now is 01:24 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.3
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.