concept aquariums 412g sps dominant store display!!!

[xenon]

Originally Posted by Bugger

400w Radium give off a lot less PAR then the GHL Mitras I dont think it can be done. where you lamps on 100%

I can assure you the brightness of a 400w Radium completely blows away the GHL Mitras with all color channels @ 100%.

[Aqua-Digital]

Originally Posted by xenon

I can assure you the brightness of a 400w Radium completely blows away the GHL Mitras with all color channels @ 100%.

Hiya Dan, I really am confused, not one person globally has ever said the PAR is too low in fact the opposite, here are some independent tests



I think user SPS photos say a lot also.



http://test.reefcentral.com/forums/s...219645&page=30

I really have no idea why your PAR meter would read so low to be honest, but good luck with the Radiums 400's hope they work out for you.

[kien]

OH EM GEE guys! Are we really going to do this again?? LOL

[Bugger]

Here is a quick video on Par levels for 250w 400w and Led. perhaps the position of the sensor was not placed properly but if you view other videos the same results come up

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZVCUr...t=HL1396478548

From coral and reef 2014 "Riddle (2007) refers to a most interesting experiment with staghorn corals Arcopora austera that was exposed to different light intensities. In values 100 to 350 PAR (umol/m/sec) the corals turned brown from about 350 to 800 PAR the corals turned bright mauve. When the UV- protective filter of the metal halide Lamp was removed at 300 PAR the coral shifted from brown to bright green.

You will need a lot of halides Xenon

[FishingGoalie]

not tryin to be a *** but if your worried about PAR so much why not just go with some sort of hybrid I get over 1200 at the surface of my tank with the ATI Hybrid Powermodule.

Just my 2 cents

[Ryan]

LEDs really are nice but I am confused as to how an LED fixture can have so much trouble.

Its seems if corals are at one level in the tank all is well but as soon as you get sps at varying depth its tougher to keep color. What burns SPS at the top, browns out lower colonies yet the ones in the middle do well.

I find it odd that MH and T5HO doesnt have this happen like with LED.

If the Mytras or Hydras were as reliable as a good ol 250 HWI with a Phoenix bulb and a reef brite for actinic or an 8 bulb TEK I would be sold. But as it is on my next build I will look for 2x 250W HQI pendants or an 8 bulb T5HO fixture. I dont want to spend big money on LED just to end up with the problems most people are having.

On a side not I was on RC classifieds the other night. Only 1 or 2 MH or T5 fixtures but there sure was alot of LED fixtures for sale on there. Could alot more people be having these problems?

[kien]

Originally Posted by Ryan

LEDs really are nice but I am confused as to how an LED fixture can have so much trouble.

Its seems if corals are at one level in the tank all is well but as soon as you get sps at varying depth its tougher to keep color. What burns SPS at the top, browns out lower colonies yet the ones in the middle do well.

I find it odd that MH and T5HO doesnt have this happen like with LED.

If the Mytras or Hydras were as reliable as a good ol 250 HWI with a Phoenix bulb and a reef brite for actinic or an 8 bulb TEK I would be sold. But as it is on my next build I will look for 2x 250W HQI pendants or an 8 bulb T5HO fixture. I dont want to spend big money on LED just to end up with the problems most people are having.

On a side not I was on RC classifieds the other night. Only 1 or 2 MH or T5 fixtures but there sure was alot of LED fixtures for sale on there. Could alot more people be having these problems?

Might I suggest this thread

[denny_C]

figured i would post some more pics


enjoy!!


cheers


denny