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  #1  
Old 02-11-2014, 12:20 PM
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I figured it out! But thanks for the help. I just gave in a reset the factory defaults and then manually re-did my light schedule. Still not sure what the problem was.

Aside from that minor issue, awesome light so far


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  #2  
Old 02-26-2014, 03:12 AM
monza monza is offline
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Can a 6200 play well with 6100?s

On a tank 82" x 30" I'm going to mount three lights. I see lots of people mounting the lights perpendicular to the tank, I was thinking I'd mount them length wise with the tank???

Which way should I mount them?
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Old 02-26-2014, 03:55 AM
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They can go together but it's better to not have them as master/slave but rather each their own because the channels aren't all the same. I have one 6200 that is master and 2 6100's and I'll be switching the pucks over to 6100. The effect is most noticeable during dusk and dawn that the colours aren't the same. High noon daytime you can't really tell.

I went perpendicular over 72" with 3 units but at 82" length and 3 I would be tempted to try parallel.
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Old 02-26-2014, 01:27 PM
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Thanks Tony. Anyone else have feed back?

Cost of converting a 6100 to a 6200?
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  #5  
Old 03-02-2014, 02:21 AM
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This big bear has a big boy LX 6200HV now over my cube that is hooked into my 300. If the cost wasn't so much I would put 4 over the 300 as well, maybe in time I will save up and buy one at a time.

Now that being said if anyone has a good lighting project they would like to share with me to try out please send to grizzwelding@platinum.ca

Thanks in advance.
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Old 03-02-2014, 03:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by monza View Post
Thanks Tony. Anyone else have feed back?

Cost of converting a 6100 to a 6200?
I did a thread on this

http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/sho...d.php?t=102908
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  #7  
Old 03-11-2014, 12:27 AM
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Does anyone have success keeping SPS well coloured under their GHL 6200 Mitras?

I have been struggling with coloration ever since I set them up 5 months ago.

I finally got my hands on a PAR meter today and I think I found my issue. I am getting just under 200 PAR at 8" bellow the surface. We all know that is not enough intensity for SPS.

I am currently using the following settings:

100% High Output mode.

60% Blue
100% Royal Blue
100% Blue white
0% Cool White
30% Natural White
30% Sky White
50% Red
0% Green
100% UV

I can achieve more PAR from these lights but then the color temp looks too yellow. We decided to take them down. We will be experimenting with different types of metal halide fixtures for our SPS system.
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  #8  
Old 03-11-2014, 02:34 AM
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I also am having trouble keeping my Sps colourful, tested par and mine is really low yet I have to keep scolys and clams in the shade as they bleach if I don't. I was told that par meters are very accurate with led as they cannot read certain spectrums. I notice top down my colours are starting to come in but from the front and sides it's brown blobs.
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  #9  
Old 03-11-2014, 04:33 PM
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That's an extremely poor showing for the lights… ouch! With the amount you'd invested in them I feel for you!

Quote:
Originally Posted by xenon View Post
Does anyone have success keeping SPS well coloured under their GHL 6200 Mitras?

I have been struggling with coloration ever since I set them up 5 months ago.

I finally got my hands on a PAR meter today and I think I found my issue. I am getting just under 200 PAR at 8" bellow the surface. We all know that is not enough intensity for SPS.

I am currently using the following settings:

100% High Output mode.

60% Blue
100% Royal Blue
100% Blue white
0% Cool White
30% Natural White
30% Sky White
50% Red
0% Green
100% UV

I can achieve more PAR from these lights but then the color temp looks too yellow. We decided to take them down. We will be experimenting with different types of metal halide fixtures for our SPS system.
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  #10  
Old 03-11-2014, 05:00 PM
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lastlight lastlight is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xenon View Post
Does anyone have success keeping SPS well coloured under their GHL 6200 Mitras?

I have been struggling with coloration ever since I set them up 5 months ago.

I finally got my hands on a PAR meter today and I think I found my issue. I am getting just under 200 PAR at 8" bellow the surface. We all know that is not enough intensity for SPS.

I am currently using the following settings:

100% High Output mode.

60% Blue
100% Royal Blue
100% Blue white
0% Cool White
30% Natural White
30% Sky White
50% Red
0% Green
100% UV

I can achieve more PAR from these lights but then the color temp looks too yellow. We decided to take them down. We will be experimenting with different types of metal halide fixtures for our SPS system.
I was wondering why you don't use the cool white's and kill the natural whites if you want more par and less yellow?
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