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#1
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![]() What is your fresh water source?
If you are using an RO/DI unit, when was the last time the filters & DI were changed? And what is the TDS reading after the RO and then after the DI stages?
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Single System Setup: 210G SPS reef, 225G FOWLR, 72G water change, 50G frag, 120G sump. I promise a journal at some point! (anyone need some coral frags? I likely always have stuff that is frag-ready) |
#2
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![]() The tank is only 14 gallons so it would be really easy just to change 100% of the water. This is a common approach for small nano aquariums and can be used as a long term maintenance plan or a temporary solution for nitrates and other contaminants.
Some links you may find useful http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2010/4/aquarium http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2005-10/rhf/ Also I'll note your temperature is quite low for an SPS tank. In addition with lower temperatures you'll likely see more fluctuations due to external temperatures. Last edited by sphelps; 01-07-2014 at 06:35 PM. |
#3
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![]() I check my ro/di water paramters before I mix the salt and after with neglagable parameters, so thats not where its coming from. Changing all the water? how would my corals do under those circumstances?
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#4
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![]() Most corals can handle significant amounts of time out of water. Walking/snorkling the beach in Hawaii personally confirms this -- many corals are exposed to the air/sun for HOURS each day.
I would just make sure you have the make-up water ready, and then just do it. IMPORTANT though, is not to disturb your sandbed - since anything in there would get stirred up. Regarding the deep sand bed releasing nutrients, this is likely the case also. There are many thoughts on the matter, but personally I prefer a shallow sandbed (1-1.5"), which I then have a sleeper goby to constantly stir it up to keep things clean and nutrient-free. If you are interested in removing/cleaning your sand -- I would recommend doing it SLOWLY so not to disturb it too much and release many nutrients too quick. Say remove a cup every few days/etc. If you do it gradually enough, you should not have an issue.
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Single System Setup: 210G SPS reef, 225G FOWLR, 72G water change, 50G frag, 120G sump. I promise a journal at some point! (anyone need some coral frags? I likely always have stuff that is frag-ready) |
#5
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![]() Did you keep the foam inserts in back of tank if there is any. If so organics fills up the foam and will make nitrates.
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#6
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![]() Everything is removed from the compartments in the back. I only have a heater and intake and return from the skimmer. The only thing that is really disturbing the sand bed is the pistol shrimp.
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#7
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![]() I would then consider removing most of the sand as Craig said.
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#8
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![]() I had 30~ppm nitrates for a long time. I was recommended Nitra-Guard Bio Cubes from J&L, and within a week my nitrates were down to between 5-10ppm (which I like to keep it there.)
http://www.jlaquatics.com/phpstore/s..._ID=plb-ng0500 Works pretty well! Just put them in a bag and throw them in the back! |