Lets see those QT tanks

[darkreef]

Ekkk! I forgot to dip (ran out) my frags will my fish get it ?!

[mrhasan]

Originally Posted by darkreef

Ekkk! I forgot to dip (ran out) my frags will my fish get it ?!

Don't think that would be an issue.

[Reef Pilot]

Originally Posted by mrhasan

Don't think that would be an issue.

I wouldn't be too sure about that. I have read of others that got ich in their tanks, when they hadn't added any new fish for a long time, and it happened after adding corals.

To be safe, I double dip my corals, first with the dip solution and then rinse again in tank water before adding to my display tank. If for some reason, I have to keep the old plug or rock with the new frag, then I also QT it for a week or so, and then double dip a second time before adding to my DT. The other reason, of course, is to try and prevent AEFW from getting into my DT. So far, so good, but AEFW (and other pests) are actually my greatest fear, not Ich, when it comes to corals.

[mrhasan]

Originally Posted by Reef Pilot

I wouldn't be too sure about that. I have read of others that got ich in their tanks, when they hadn't added any new fish for a long time, and it happened after adding corals.

To be safe, I double dip my corals, first with the dip solution and then rinse again in tank water before adding to my display tank. If for some reason, I have to keep the old plug or rock with the new frag, then I also QT it for a week or so, and then double dip a second time before adding to my DT. The other reason, of course, is to try and prevent AEFW from getting into my DT. So far, so good, but AEFW (and other pests) are actually my greatest fear, not Ich, when it comes to corals.

True that. Dipping is something that should be religiously practiced anyhow.

[mrhasan]

Originally Posted by Reef Pilot

Quarantine for new fish: After a few newbie hard lessons in the beginning, I set up a QT for new fish. Initially, this tank was connected as a refugium to my sump, and then disconnected when in use as a QT. I use the hyposalinity routine, and have had great success with acclimating new fish including some more finicky Butterfly fish such as Copperbands and Pearlscales. The entire QT process usually takes 2 or 3 months for me. Here is a good article on the benefits of hypo.
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2007/6/fish

I have always had a permanent QT with a canister filter, and I now keep some live rock in there as well. It is still multi purpose, and I QT some corals in there too. And I use it as an overflow frag tank, when I run out of room in my DT frag rack. I use water from my DT water changes, so no salt costs.

Pretty simple set-up actually. But the key is permanent. Most failures happen because of new set-ups (no stable nitrogen cycle), and the misuse of copper or other chemicals. I have had 100% success rate, when I used hypo. You can also use Prazipro at the beginning before you lower the salinity if you suspect internal parasites. Then after a few days, start the RODI water changes to lower the salinity to 1.009. And to raise, just use the DT tank water from water changes.

Originally Posted by mandyplo

Yea I learned this way too
Lost almost all of my stock and I finally decided to get a QT... SOMEHOW?!?!! Still got ich in my tank right now... My fish seem to be healthy enough how ever to fight it off and I honestly have NO idea how it got back in my tank I took every precaution and still.... ugh

Anyways, I ran my tank without fish for 12 weeks.
I had fish in quarantine after the 12 week period, and treated them in a 20 gallon quarantine tank bare bottom nothing in it but PVC tubing, and a filter with only filter floss.
I treat all of my new fish with copper, specifically seachem Cupramine for 18 days in quarantine.
I mean I THOUGHT I was doing it right? I haven't lost any fish but every once in a while I do see my clown and tang with the occasional break out of 1-5 white spots... then I see nothing again for a while... Like I said I haven't lost anyone, but my fish DO flash so I know something is irritating them whether those white spots are ich or not.
They haven't stopped eating or anything...
Considering going 12 weeks again with all of my fish in quarantine and my display empty...
Really p***** I can't seem to get rid of this bloody parasite.

Thanks for the inputs.

[gregzz4]

You can make your's as simple as a tank, heater, filter and cheap canopy. $100 would cover it used easily

I kept mine running until I finished buying fish and kept new filter foam blocks in my sump (thanks Brad) for a month or more before use
Whenever I populated the QT, I added more blocks to the sump as I toss the used ones

To answer your initial question Raied, here's mine;
It's a 20g with a 15w freshwater bulb (low intensity is best for a QT) and an eggcrate top. The front half of the crate is cut and removable for arm access. I have had wrasses jump through it so you may be better off with a stock-style canopy
I use a 100w Jager and an Aquaclear 50
And a Seachem Ammo Alert badge
That's all you'd need

I used to keep my tank bare bottom, but it currently has tile as it's a close color to sand (the stand is black and reflected the light like a mirror - not very subdued for guys trapped in a small tank)
I blacked-out the back and sides (thanks Albert for the suggestion) with a garbage bag taped in place
I use either a take-out tray, or a take-out lid, for sand. Either depends on who is in QT. The tray is good for wrasses. The lid works well for blennies, gobies etc

For overkill, 'cause I always go overboard;
I installed an Aquaclear Surface Skimmer
I have an 8w hang-on UV run by a Lifeguard 1200
And I have a Tunze 3155 ATO (went through litres/day in the summer)
Plus a Penn-Plax B11 Silent Air battery backup air pump
It's also monitored/temp controlled by my RKE, and has a 120mm PC fan for cooling
And a ground probe as everything is on GFCIs
Oh, and a moonlight

Guess that's about it

Before the tile, black garbage bag and eggcrate top





Newer pic



With a lid for sand and airstones installed

[mrhasan]

Originally Posted by gregzz4

You can make your's as simple as a tank, heater, filter and cheap canopy. $100 would cover it used easily

I kept mine running until I finished buying fish and kept new filter foam blocks in my sump (thanks Brad) for a month or more before use
Whenever I populated the QT, I added more blocks to the sump as I toss the used ones

To answer your initial question Raied, here's mine;
It's a 20g with a 15w freshwater bulb (low intensity is best for a QT) and an eggcrate top. The front half of the crate is cut and removable for arm access. I have had wrasses jump through it so you may be better off with a stock-style canopy
I use a 100w Jager and an Aquaclear 50
And a Seachem Ammo Alert badge
That's all you'd need

I used to keep my tank bare bottom, but it currently has tile as it's a close color to sand (the stand is black and reflected the light like a mirror - not very subdued for guys trapped in a small tank)
I blacked-out the back and sides (thanks Albert for the suggestion) with a garbage bag taped in place
I use either a take-out tray, or a take-out lid, for sand. Either depends on who is in QT. The tray is good for wrasses. The lid works well for blennies, gobies etc

For overkill, 'cause I always go overboard;
I installed an Aquaclear Surface Skimmer
I have an 8w hang-on UV run by a Lifeguard 1200
And I have a Tunze 3155 ATO (went through litres/day in the summer)
Plus a Penn-Plax B11 Silent Air battery backup air pump
It's also monitored/temp controlled by my RKE, and has a 120mm PC fan for cooling
Oh, and a moonlight

Guess that's about it

Before the tile, black garbage bag and eggcrate top





Current pic

Thanks Greg. Its very helpful I really don't want any complicated setup since I don't have the space for it (gonna put it right beside my tank). So anything from 20 to 30 gallon is fine I am guessing? I will probably put a copperband in their for treatment (if I can get a good specimen). What sort of medication do you use? Can cupramine and prazipro be used together? Seems like ich and intestinal worms are the two most common diseases.