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#1
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![]() I have no idea. There might be more advanced things that you can do that I don't know about, but as far as I know, you can set program they'll default to if they lose contact with the base station, choose a default 'set' program that they'll go back to if no other commands are in place for that time, and then tell it to run specific profiles if it's within a particular time window.
I've only seen it go to control to the minute, but you might be able make it go to the second |
#2
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![]() I was just thinking - it's not 'random', but tidal swell mode has a minimum speed of 50%. It works better when there's two pumps on opposite sides of the tank, but it does a ramp up from 50% to like 65% or something, then down to 50, then a ramp back up but to like 75%, then back to 50%, then a ramp up to 90ish%, then a period at 100%
Seeing as all reef crest is doing is going up and down, it might accomplish what you're looking for? I've got my pumps back on tidal swell after a horrible failure of an attempt to create a gyre, and it seems to be getting flow to the centre of my tank where it's been dead since removing the MP60s |
#3
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![]() TSM has been working well for me on 4 foot tank. I have 3 MP40s, 2 at the ends & one at center back glass. They're in a master/slave grouping but I have the one on the back glass limited to about 50%, not sure, but certainly doesn't ramp up as high as the other two during the mode cycle. My tank is narrow front to back, I would have preferred an MP10 on the back glass, but the MP40 speed limited works well enough. Without the pump on the back glass I would for sure have a lack of flow in the middle. The most quiet places in my tank are at the ends on the bottom & corners.
Occasionally I'll put them into NTM since that's a single button push. I took the time to tune a nice wave when they're in that mode, so works great at stirring things up. Also do that an hour or so before water changes. What you might consider is changing your MP10 for a 40. Then you'll have more flow at lower settings & the 50% minimum with the MP10 won't be required. You can always limit the maximum speed of the 40 as I'm doing with the one on my back glass.
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Mike 77g sumpless SW DIY 10 watt multi-chip LED build ![]() Last edited by mike31154; 11-28-2013 at 08:34 PM. |
#4
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![]() good call mike using 40s would be the easiest but certainly not the cheapest solution.
i'd have to check first to see if they'd fit in my holes. |
#5
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![]() I thought you were asking about your marathon pace for 10K. Nevermind, carry on.
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#6
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![]() Quote:
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180 starfire front, LPS, millipora Doesn't matter how much you have been reading until you take the plunge. You don't know as much as you think. |
#7
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![]() judging by the screenshot looks like this might be possible soon?
http://reefbuilders.com/2014/01/27/a...h-water-pumps/ looks like you have control over the entire output curve =) |
#8
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![]() Quote:
Anyhow, perhaps a trade would be in order, although the MP40 on my back glass where I wanted an MP10 is probably in need of a new wet side, so would be a bad deal for you, depending on the wear & tear on your MP10.
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Mike 77g sumpless SW DIY 10 watt multi-chip LED build ![]() |
#9
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![]() My mp10s are pretty mint I suppose I could search out a trade with cash scenario. I'd be worried the noise would be too much tho. Be a matter of comparing mine at 100% vs an mp40 at something like 50% I imagine.
The holes I'm referring too are the ones in my permanent rock wall which is affixed to the back of the tank. |
#10
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![]() Trade plus cash was exactly how I downgraded from MP60s to MP40s. I bet there's plenty of people in town who you'd be able to do that with. Used MP40s are selling on RC for anywhere between 330 and 360 bucks, so I bet you wouldn't even have to throw in that much cash.
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