Scott's 270g aka Project Mayhem

[sphelps]

Great job on the plumbing, did that silicone hose come with the pump?

[Scythanith]

Originally Posted by sphelps

Great job on the plumbing, did that silicone hose come with the pump?

Thanks Steve. I had to order the silicone connector kit from Abyzz. The clamps are pretty badass though!

[kien]

man, you kids and your fancy schmancy fish rooms. So jelly right now!!

[sphelps]

I like putting heaters in overflow boxes, good amount of turnaround and wasted space otherwise. You'd probably want at least one in the bottom sump as well though, if you drain it for water changes or maintenance you'll probably want to preheat the water before turning it back on, unless you have a heated storage bin for that.

[Scythanith]

Locline returns!

[Scythanith]

Originally Posted by sphelps

I like putting heaters in overflow boxes, good amount of turnaround and wasted space otherwise. You'd probably want at least one in the bottom sump as well though, if you drain it for water changes or maintenance you'll probably want to preheat the water before turning it back on, unless you have a heated storage bin for that.

I am hoping to have a ~40g mixing tank that will have a pump and heater. The profilux will run that pump with a sensor to perform water changes.

[Madreefer]

I just noticed your skimmer has a different base than what i've seen before. What skimmer is that? I thought it was an AlphaCone. Am I mistaken?

[Scythanith]

You're right, you are mistaken

It's a bubble king double cone 250. Very similar beasts, but you can see there are some differences. I also have the rd3 speedy pump running it.

Cheers!

[sphelps]

A couple kinks to still work out there for sure. Sounds like that pump sure pushes a lot of water, I know when I ran the two wavelines I had to cut out the weir teeth to handle the flow properly, but at the time concept was cutting pretty narrow teeth. You can add risers in the overflow but they shouldn't prevent the the tank from draining to overflow weir height, only prevent the overflow box from draining and control the overflow box water level to prevent trickling noise. If the teeth is holding back that much water they may be too restrictive. Basically you should try and limit the tank to 1" water level drop during shut down. Usually 2" is actually my go by number but with large tanks and small sumps that's not usually possible. With 1" you need space for 3456 cubic inches in the sump which means if the sump is 48" x 16" you need 4.5" of extra space above running water level. Now if you're seeing a 2" that's 9.5" in the sump needed which isn't going to happen.

I don't see a check valve on the return, that's potentially a way of reducing some back flow if it's draining lower than weir height, if not then not worth while.

The problem with the baffle is it really shouldn't be a baffle to be honest, one of those things that got lost in translation, not shown on drawing. I'm use to building these myself out of acrylic so most of the time all the details aren't shown. The baffle should be more of a screen, just to protect the pump, like mine: