These LED's just aren't cutting it. Or - are they?

[SeaHorse_Fanatic]

Here's my $.02 worth:

I have been using DIY LED units using 3 spectrums of whites (6500k, 10000k & 20000k) and 2 of blue (445nm & 454nm) for about 2 years now. Been very happy with the growth and colour of my corals. 28 emitters at 10w each for max. output of 280w. I usually run the light 8 hours 80-100% and 4 hours with just 120w blues. My LED specialist-friend built this version with more aluminum bars so it uses only passive heat-dissipation (no fans) and never gets more than slightly warm.

My pendant light over my 2' cube only has a DIY unit with 1 blue (454nm) & 2 white (6500k & 20000k) over it right now and will soon be replaced with another DIY "Kessil"-type light with 3b & 2w. Even with just 30w over a 2' cube, my rbtas & LPS (mostly duncans & Euphyllias) & zoas are all doing great. With 5x 10w emitters, I will simply dim both whites and blues instead of having them at 100% as they are now.

I have a 60w Eshine Cree Classic over my soon-to-be-torn-down RSM130. I have RBTAs (really bubbly) and various other corals & even a small Squamosa (which has more than doubled in size under the Eshine in the last year+).

My frag setup in my sump has a no-name 72w Cree light and the frags are growing great under this "cheap" LED light.

So in total, I have 2 Cree "cheap" lights, a 6' DIY and a DIY pendant. Corals, clams & anemones are all doing great.

One thing I noticed (and others here have noted) is that don't judge your "Light" visually. If you go from MH lights, your leds will seem dim. We tested with a PAR meter and these emitters were giving as good or better PAR readings than my 150w & 250w 14000k Phoenix and Aquaconnect halides.

So, yeah, better to go with low level LED and slowly ramp up than to go too bright, too fast and bleach/kill your corals with light shock.

Anthony