These LED's just aren't cutting it. Or - are they?

[mrhasan]

Originally Posted by Ron99

There is simply no comparison between those cheap chinese fixtures and a good quality fixture. Thermal management, drivers, the led emitters themselves will all be better in a better fixture. I would not count on reliability or efficiency from that Taotronics unit. I conducted a side by side test using Cree, Bridgelux, Seoul Semiconductor and cheap no name chinese 3w LEDs and there was a significant difference in output on the exact same driver.

If you want to save money the best approach is a DIY array using Cree emitters and Meanwell drivers.

I do agree but also disagree to some extend (ah LEDs!!!)

From my hours and hours of trying to find horror stories (and success...well to some extend) regarding LEDs over reefs, I tend to notice that generic fixtures have better review than high end fixtures. Now-a-days, most of the generic fixtures uses bridgelux (you can even ask them to put in cree) and meanwell drivers. So basically, its the same components to that of a higher end fixture apart from the quality control and expensive labor. But you are also paying 3 to 10 times less. Even if the generic fixture burns out within a year, you can still get a supply of 8 more fixtures to come close to the amount you would have spent initially on a radion (will the radion last for 8 years? With the power supply unit having a power factor of 0.54?!!?!). And when they use bridgelux emitters, they generally add more than they would have if they were to use cree. So, basically, the output of a 120w fixture gets almost closer to a 70w range cree fixture.

Over the course of various arguments and .. well ...stuffs..I came to conclude that:
1. For tanks less than 30": go with a generic fixture
2. For tanks more than 30" but less than....say 50": go with generic fixture (or higher end if you want the fancy modes other than just photons) or DIY. All gonna cost almost the same (if radion and mitras are taken out)
3. For tanks with more than 72": DIY would be the most ideal and cheapest option.

P.S. the above mentioned points are purely opinion and shouldn't be taken for granted

[SeaHorse_Fanatic]

Here's my $.02 worth:

I have been using DIY LED units using 3 spectrums of whites (6500k, 10000k & 20000k) and 2 of blue (445nm & 454nm) for about 2 years now. Been very happy with the growth and colour of my corals. 28 emitters at 10w each for max. output of 280w. I usually run the light 8 hours 80-100% and 4 hours with just 120w blues. My LED specialist-friend built this version with more aluminum bars so it uses only passive heat-dissipation (no fans) and never gets more than slightly warm.

My pendant light over my 2' cube only has a DIY unit with 1 blue (454nm) & 2 white (6500k & 20000k) over it right now and will soon be replaced with another DIY "Kessil"-type light with 3b & 2w. Even with just 30w over a 2' cube, my rbtas & LPS (mostly duncans & Euphyllias) & zoas are all doing great. With 5x 10w emitters, I will simply dim both whites and blues instead of having them at 100% as they are now.

I have a 60w Eshine Cree Classic over my soon-to-be-torn-down RSM130. I have RBTAs (really bubbly) and various other corals & even a small Squamosa (which has more than doubled in size under the Eshine in the last year+).

My frag setup in my sump has a no-name 72w Cree light and the frags are growing great under this "cheap" LED light.

So in total, I have 2 Cree "cheap" lights, a 6' DIY and a DIY pendant. Corals, clams & anemones are all doing great.

One thing I noticed (and others here have noted) is that don't judge your "Light" visually. If you go from MH lights, your leds will seem dim. We tested with a PAR meter and these emitters were giving as good or better PAR readings than my 150w & 250w 14000k Phoenix and Aquaconnect halides.

So, yeah, better to go with low level LED and slowly ramp up than to go too bright, too fast and bleach/kill your corals with light shock.

Anthony