Just dived in

[MarkoD]

Shoot in raw so you can adjust as much as possible in post processing.

That's probably the best tip anyone can give you

[xenon]

Your camera settings will depend on what you are trying to take a picture of.

Give us some examples.

[sphelps]

Originally Posted by MarkoD

Shoot in raw so you can adjust as much as possible in post processing.

That's probably the best tip anyone can give you

Not to purposely contradict but I'd say that's pretty much the worst advice anyone could give you. Shooting in RAW basically tells your camera "don't worry about it I got this" thus bypassing the processing ability your camera came with. In addition raw files are larger and much harder to work with on a computer since you need special software to even open and view the file. Then you end tuning everything to what your see on your computer monitor which may be very different compared other video sources or printers. So unless you really think you can process images better than the fancy camera you just bought I'd advise against the hassle that comes with RAW format.

I'd say better advice would be to stick with the basics relating to actual photography as appose to relying mostly on manual post processing. Shoot in jpeg and take lots of pictures. Choose an appropriate lens for the subject, the body is only as good as the lens you use. Try stationary subjects first like corals. Stick with auto focus until you get use to the other settings. Aperture priority mode is my preference and what I would suggest you try first. If you can keep the subject still (ie no tank flow) then choose a lower iso setting for better clarity. Try large aperture (small f number) for faster shoots and less depth of field, then try small aperture (large f number) for slower shutter speeds but higher DOF. The DOF because more important in macro shots. Adjust WB as needed, with LED lighting tune your lights more white to make this easier. Once you start getting clear shots with good color you can look at post processing but still no need for raw files. If you have the software most allow you to open jpeg files as raw format to get the same level of adjustment but there's really not much more in there you need.

[mrhasan]

Originally Posted by sphelps

Not to purposely contradict but I'd say that's pretty much the worst advice anyone could give you. Shooting in RAW basically tells your camera "don't worry about it I got this" thus bypassing the processing ability your camera came with. In addition raw files are larger and much harder to work with on a computer since you need special software to even open and view the file. Then you end tuning everything to what your see on your computer monitor which may be very different compared other video sources or printers. So unless you really think you can process images better than the fancy camera you just bought I'd advise against the hassle that comes with RAW format.

I'd say better advice would be to stick with the basics relating to actual photography as appose to relying mostly on manual post processing. Shoot in jpeg and take lots of pictures. Choose an appropriate lens for the subject, the body is only as good as the lens you use. Try stationary subjects first like corals. Stick with auto focus until you get use to the other settings. Aperture priority mode is my preference and what I would suggest you try first. If you can keep the subject still (ie no tank flow) then choose a lower iso setting for better clarity. Try large aperture (small f number) for faster shoots and less depth of field, then try small aperture (large f number) for slower shutter speeds but higher DOF. The DOF because more important in macro shots. Adjust WB as needed, with LED lighting tune your lights more white to make this easier. Once you start getting clear shots with good color you can look at post processing but still no need for raw files. If you have the software most allow you to open jpeg files as raw format to get the same level of adjustment but there's really not much more in there you need.

+1. I was also going to suggest AP mode for beginning the experiments. RAW is more...well...."RAW" so basically its better to experiment before going raw. Sometimes, its painful to edit raw pictures (takes a long time when you take too many images) and needs software (I guess a basic software for editing raws come with the camera but for proper utilization, PS is needed). And autofocus is always the best friend

[sphelps]

If you're looking for lens suggestions for aquariums I'd recommend you get yourself two prime lenses as appose to anything with zoom. Prime lenses are cheaper and take better pictures in terms of clarity and while you can't zoom that feature really isn't needed for aquariums.

A 50mm prime is a pretty common lens, no need for a macro version or the most expensive version which will only vary slightly in the aperture range. It's rare to use some thing like a 1.4 f number for aquarium shots and you'll have to get impossibly close to the subject to take advantage of the macro ability.

Next would be the macro (100mm for Canon I believe), this is probably what I would consider the best lens for aquariums. I prefer a larger lens like say 150mm, (Sigma makes a nice 150mm macro) simply because the larger the lens the further the min focus distance. You can also move the lens back but you can't move the lens through glass.

[Aqua-Digital]

Thanks guys for the help Its seems I need to get a basic grasp of the camera and then can play more. So far what I have taken is not too bad, the camera is very good at doing the dirty work for you it seems, manual mode is easy to tune will post some photos shortly, not all corals my wife makes a good subject also (ex model)

[Aqua-Digital]

first attempt at photography, clearly got a lot to learn but not bad start for me at least. got two good subjects, the wife and my corals.







Rare and expensive coral! other than being proud of course the reason I add this one is because its the first photo I have taken of Liz with the camera, but still looks like the exposure is wrong, background too light the walls are Mocha, I guess its the flash.

[H2o2]

For sure you must have the actinic lighting right because that last photo sure has a lot of pop :-)

[sphelps]

You need an external flash that you bounce off the ceiling to avoid those kinds of shadows. The coral pics look pretty good, WB could use some work and they're a bit soft but without telling us what settings and lens not much else to say.

[Scythanith]

This has a little white balance correction, some black point adjustment, some more definition, and some output sharpening. By nooooo means perfect (I mean my editing, no your pictures haahaa), but shows off the patterning a little better

As for the camera info, listen to Steve, he's a pro

A couple extra pointers:

Shoot straight through the glass, NO angles!
Wear dark clothing, less reflections off the glass.
Use a tripod.
Use manual focus for stationary objects. This, combined with AP, can really showcase what you want to be the focal point of the photo.
If you can set WB easily enough (you can), set it to ~10,000K and start there. That's essentially the same as "cloudy" setting.
It has been mentioned but shut off the power heads and return pump.

Take lots of pictures and mess around with your settings! Once you find what you like you can probably save the entire batch of settings under a custom label and return to them every time you're shooting the tank.

As for the wife shot, Steve hit it on the head, bounce that light! Also, the camera doesn't always know what's right, you may have to dial in a bit of flash compensation. Usually looks like a little lighting bolt and a +/-. Your picture may have required a little "-".

Cheers,
Scott

Originally Posted by Aqua-Digital

first attempt at photography, clearly got a lot to learn but not bad start for me at least. got two good subjects, the wife and my corals.