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#1
10-10-2013, 02:08 PM
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This is pretty cool. I remember trying to make one of these way way way back in the day. Sadly it wasn't successful for me, however I still think the idea is very interesting and I'm excited to see someone succeed with it.
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#2
10-11-2013, 11:48 PM
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Done.....
OK, 'jettawagon' was kind enough to let me fill this thing with some of his surplus bioballs. THANKS!!!
Next, I glued on the top cap and tightened up the bottom access. Voilą its done! http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m...psf47d9482.jpg I have an extra 260 gph pump sitting here so hooked it all up. I got the pump in the bucket and filled it with water. Problem, as you know we need alot of pressure to "Prime" this thing and get out all the air bubbles. I'll admit (as it wasn't working) I was fearful of a dis-assembly. After finding a large syringe, I was able to pressure infuse by hand the water that was needed into the 75' of coiled hose (inside), to prime it. After that the pump worked great and I was able to easily fill the rest of it up with tap water. It is sitting recirculating water from the bucket. With a 260gph it has a steady flow out but no pressure. http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m...pscdc60c7a.jpg There are a few things outstanding still. The hoses leak a bit where it attaches to the denitrater, I need to get 2 hose clamps (this is easy). Also, I think that the screw on bottom cover might dribble (leak) a bit. I'll try tightening it up & if that doesn't work, silicone. I think so that I can sleep at night (fearing a leak) I'll use the silicone, but it might make it really hard to get back into - lets hope I don't need to. (I'll silicone just a bit for a seal but not the threads!) I need to open it, dry it, silicone it, let it dry/cure, ventilate it, and then I think it'll be water time again. This will be a few days & I'll save some water from the next water change to help back fill the new volume that I need. Last edited by hfp75; 10-11-2013 at 11:53 PM.
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#3
10-17-2013, 07:29 PM
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Well, its been a few days (busy working). I did a water change yesterday and kept the old water with nutrients for this project. It took a long time to get it primed again with old tank water. Lots of manual priming (pushing out air bubbles). (I've got a heater and no pump in the bucket as there is enough extra circulation already from the pump in there.)
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m...ps9f7166c4.jpg After a gymnastics event with it, the air is gone (I think) and its dripping old tank water at about a drip a second. The rate was hard to get as the valve isn't obviously rated for such precision. You can maybe see a slow drop forming.... http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m...psf2e9b2f8.jpg I'm getting the Ammonia, Nitrites and Nitrate readings from the bucket of water. Just so we have something to compare against. :-) Lets see if this thing works.
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#4
10-17-2013, 08:28 PM
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Here are my levels as of today
Ammonia - 0-0.25 Nitrites - 0 Nitrates - 20 I know that the colors don't really come through that great. http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m...ps6aec1310.jpg
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#5
10-23-2013, 06:14 PM
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ON 10/19
I tested the NITRATEs and the test came back so 'Dark Red' I was concerned about what was going on - but I left it to just run and do its thing. I am figuring it is part of the initial cycle. (I didn't take a picture) I will guess that... Nitrates - 100 ppm Last edited by hfp75; 10-23-2013 at 06:24 PM.
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#6
10-23-2013, 06:23 PM
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Today I tested the water again and am very happy with the results!
Nitrates - 5-10 (This is easily a reduction of 75 ppm) Phosphates - 0.25 (maybe a bit less & not far from the source water) Ph - 7.9 (a bit low but there is no light/photosynthesis in the bucket) http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m...pse8e2097d.jpg All water samples were taken from the return hose and not the bucket of water. If the Nitrates are just dropping now from the massive 100 and I'm sitting at 5-10 I am very happy. I'll give it another few days and we will see where things are at. I hope that when I check it again Nitrates are a Zero from the return line and the bucket. The phosphates are easily correctable with Rowaphos & the Ph I can correct with some buffer. Lets wait and see........ Last edited by hfp75; 10-23-2013 at 06:37 PM.
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#7
10-29-2013, 03:40 AM
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Tonight I tested the water again and I'm ecstatic with the results!
Nitrates - 0 (No interpretation needed) Phosphates - 0.25 (maybe a bit less & not far from the source water) Ph - 7.9 (should self correct once its in the tank water circulation, plus its holding at 7.9 and not dropping.) ONLY CHANGE IS NITRATES TO A ZERO!!!! http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m...psa1e28a0e.jpg All water samples were taken from the return hose and not the bucket of water. The Nitrates have dropped from the massive 100 and I'm sitting at ZERO!!!!!!! It first started running its cycle on the 17th and by today the 28th, it looks to be running (fully cycled). Time to add this thing into the tank circulation and monitor it & the tank! Last edited by hfp75; 10-29-2013 at 03:45 AM.
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#8
12-04-2013, 11:00 PM
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Considering how high your nitrates have been your tank is spectacular, sand is clean, doesn't look over-run with nuisance algae, and those corals are beautiful.
I read about denitrator coils a while back when I was looking in to nutrient control methods for my tank. Just curious, what made you decide to go with this instead of something like organic carbon dosing? Have you ever struggled with algae, or just high nitrates?
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#9
12-04-2013, 11:20 PM
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Well, I have not really had nuisance algae at all. Every now and then I get a bit of algae built up on the sand, but usually that is under the tube anemone, as none of the snails or sand sifting star fish will go under there to stir up the sand (I'll just do it with my fingers every few weeks). Rarely will I find much for algae, I have only suffered from high NO3 from the mixed reef tank.
I debated vodka, sugar, bioballs/pellets & IO NO3 reducer, but in the end the 'COIL' looked best as there were no additives, just loads of anaerobic bacteria. Less overall cost!!!! Plus, if the additives run out (in the tank/system) you have a bacterial crash as they don't have the carbon to live on. This way, if the 'COIL' is removed or shuts down it just reverts back to aerobic bacteria and the existing anaerobic that is in the tank. No massive die off. All my bacteria live on their own. You could say that dosing is like steroids, but dosing doesn't only effect bacteria. So, the potential mess/crash if there are carbon issues (runs out, or changes in concentration) could be monumental!!! Hence why I steered away from it. No Additives, no increased cost, less chance of a crash.... My cost to build the coil was about $50 bucks plus the pump, hose & inline ball valves.
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